Winter Swappables Part 2: Landing Lights

by Bayboos | January 29, 2016 | (12) Posted in Projects

Last year I shared the idea of simple skis that can be easily swapped with the wheels to allow flying from snow. But there are times when it's not enough. Many of us could not take advantage of that simply because of very short days - it's already dark when we are done with our daily duties. Fortunately, there is a solution for that, and we all know it: LIGHTS. What many of us don't know (until they try to land an airplane in the dark) is that seeing the plane is just one part of the equation. The other one is seeing it's surrounding, especially the distance from the ground. In this article, we'll try to learn some basics of both, and find some nice, effective and cheap solution.

(For the impatient ones: the video can be found in the middle of the article)

 

THEORETICAL BACKGROUND

Most of us already saw an RC vehicle illuminated in that way or another, and we know what's the purpose of that: it allows the pilot to see where the plane is and to recognize it's orientation/attitude. This type of illumination can be established in two ways:

- point light sources, usually steady/blinking LED lights mounted on the surface of the airframe. This category also includes light sources mounted inside the airframe in cases where there is very few of them and they don't lit much of the surface.

- spread light sources, in most cases done in one of two ways: either by using strong external light sources, mounted on a boom/arm and pointed at the airplane itself, or by installing a large number of light sources inside the airframe and making large parts of it "glow".

There are other methods available as well, but those are more rare and usually not as effective. The best examples of such can be found in the RC heli world, where various limitations (weight limit, lack of the actual fuselage) are mixed with an opportunities (large surface of the rotor disc) resulting with unique and spectacular solutions.

But that's not in the scope of this article.

 

Point light sources work best for showing plane's location. High-intensity light emitted from a small surface can be easily spotted on the dark background, even from quite long distances; and can help with airplane's identification. They are also required for scale airplanes since all "full scale" airplanes have them installed (and for the same reasons). But they are not very useful for the orientation since all you see is "a group of points flying in loose, constantly changing formation". This is where spread light sources come to play. They make the whole plane visible by either pointing a light source at the airframe (often used for large balsa/plywood aerobatic planes), or by illuminating partially transparent airframe from the inside (works best with foam planes). This type of light does not look scale at all, but makes the whole plane visible just like (or even better than) during the day.

There are tons of sources about how to install both point and surface lights all over the internet. I did explain my own way of doing that in the Depron Storch build article, combining both types of lights in one plane to get the best of both worlds. The lights were tested on various occasions, both in the summer and on the snow, and they work great as you can see in the pictures below.

Now there's the other group of lights: the ones meant to illuminate the airplane's surroundings rather than the plane itself. Such lights can be useful for various purposes, but the most common one is to make the landing easier, safer and/or even possible. That's why those are referred to as "landing lights" and usually are installed in a similar way to the "full scale" planes.

This way of installing lights works great for the scale look but is not very useful for their intended purpose. "Full scale" planes are usually way faster than RC planes, and the beam of their landing lights can reach much further and cover much more surface. RC landing lights have to be much less powerful and should have a much wider beam to cover enough space to actually work. The plane type I'm using as a test bed - FT Simple Storch - is almost as far from the real plane as you can get in terms of speed and thus required light beam range. This renders "scale-like" landing lights useless but creates additional opportunities I'll try to describe later.

Two more things need to be explained before we'll jump into technical details, and those are: goals and restrictions. Landing lights are used for two main goals: altitude/glide path assessment and obstacle detection. In "full scale" planes both of those goals are achieved by one light source (or group of those) pointed forward and slightly below the horizon. With the visual clues provided by this light, the pilot sitting inside the cockpit can see everything he or she needs to safely bring the plane down. But that's not true for RC pilot. Due to a different point of view, one forward-facing light source may work for obstacle detection but is not very useful in terms of altitude assessment. For that purpose, RC plane does require a second light source (or the first one with wide enough beam) pointed more down than forward, with the angle adjusted according to the approach speed (slower the plane, the angle should be more vertical). In terms of restrictions: some of them are obvious, like weight and power consumption. But one more thing that needs to be considered is the fact that landing lights should not be too strong to avoid over-shining other airplane lights or even blinding the pilot, especially during the most demanding flight phase: landing.

When you decide to install landing lights on your plane, you need to start with answering few simple questions:

1. Should you be able to turn the light on and off independently from the rest of power system, and if so: in flight (remote controlled) or on the ground only? The answer to this question is obviously related to power consumption and the light output limitation. From the most complex solution to the most simple one:

- radio controlled lights definitely look great. They can also be turned on only when needed, using less energy and thus limiting the impact on flight times. This solution allows them to be a bit on the strong side. Even if the light itself may be too strong to see the plane when staring directly at it, you can mitigate this risk by simply not turning it on when flying straight in. The obvious disadvantage is the wiring complexity, with one more part - RC switch - you need to buy and one more part that can fail.

- manually operated switch is slightly more simple and cheap. It can also preserve the battery when flying during the day. But it can't be used to avoid staring at the bright light, and it also does not provide this "blink factor" RC switch definitely have.

- constantly powered lights are theoretically the most simple ones, but they lack all the advantages mentioned above. This can be improved to some extent by using additional power source (rather than connecting the lights to the main battery), but in my opinion, it doesn't make much sense.

2. What the power and beam angle should be? The answer is related to the one for the previous question to some extent, but in the most part, it depends on the intended use. The power should be appropriate to the range the beam should have to fulfill its purpose. Faster planes need to have the landing strip illuminated way before the plane reaches runway threshold, slower planes can deal with relatively dim lights and still work well enough. Beam angles (both horizontal and vertical) needs to be restricted in two cases: when the light is very strong and can disturb the pilot/observer view or bother spectators, or - on the contrary - when the light source is very weak and you don't want to waste the light going where you don't need it.

3. Where and how you want to install the light source? This is actually the least important and the least specific question, even though at the beginning it may seem the easiest to answer. What you decide at this point determines the limit of light source size and weight, and the amount of work you will need to do to actually perform the installation. But it doesn't have much to do with the actual light performance, and thus the answer can and should be changed if you can't find proper light source that will fit in the original spot.

 

PROPOSED SOLUTION

My answers were as follows:

1. Radio controlled switch for the landing lights. This is due to the fact that my plane has other lights already controlled by manual switch, and I really wanted the additional "blink factor" :)

2. The light intensity should not exceed my other external lights by much. My plane of choice is very slow and thus does not require large beam range; while I'm going to fly the plane in places where very strong light may actually bother other people. Limited intensity practically removed beam angle restrictions. I wanted to have the light cover almost a full quarter of the vertical plain (from straight forward to straight down), but didn't care much about the horizontal coverage.

3. At first, I wanted to have the lights installed in the wings, but the answer to second question (especially the angle part) combined with the wing structure would make it very labour-intensive and much more expensive. I then settled on the fuselage-mounted lights, leaving the number of light sources to be determined later.

 

For the switch, I already had Turnigy Receiver Controlled Switch lying around, so this part was a no-brainer.

 

It was slightly more difficult for the light source. My "orientation lights" are made of "standard led strip" lights, which are using 3528 SMD LED modules (three on each wing tip). That, plus a lot of similar LEDs inside the wings, provide a relatively large amount of light; yet definitely not enough in terms of landing aid (tested in flight). Knowing that, and having some basic knowledge of what's on the market, I decided to look for SMD LED modules intended for car use, most well-known as "LED bulb replacements". What immediately caught my attention was 24x 5050 panel described as "roof/reading light": a flat piece of 24 LED modules designed to operate on a 12v power supply and provide enough light to read in a car, but not disturb the driver. Sounds like a perfect fit for the purpose, so I got two of them.

Originally, this type of light source is designed to provide uniform stream of light in the whole area, distributed evenly for the entire 180 degrees angle in both plains. This task is partially achieved by using diffuser lenses - basically a semi-transparent cover that reduces the intensity, but spreads the light beam. The LED panel itself emits most of it's light in the 90 degrees angle (both plains), with some residual light emitted outside the main beam up to 180 degrees. This is exactly what I need: with two such panels, I can cover the designed area with the main beam and still have the light visible at any angle from the front/down.

The panels came with thick, double-sided adhesive foam, but after removing it, the whole thing turned out to be pretty thin. I decided to glue the down-facing light to the bottom of the fuselage, which did not require any airframe modification other than cutting out the hole for wires.

The forward-facing one was a little more tricky, because there is no surface the light can be glued to. I had to glue in a piece of depron in front and below the firewall to create such surface, making sure it will not make the battery installation more difficult.

I connected both of those lights in parallel, and then passed the wires trough the "electronics rack". The wires were then connected to the manual switch, with the remote switch installed (as instructed) on the positive wire. This way of connecting landing lights make them work only when all other lights are turned on, which is perfectly fine - I don't need to use landing lights when it's bright enough to fly with no lights at all.

 

TESTING

A couple of tweaking and bench-testing hours later, it was finally the time to test the lights "in the real-life scenario". Luckily, I do have a camera operator "contracted" for all of my test/maiden flights (one day my girlfriend said: "don't you dare flying new planes without me! I want to see them in the air at least once, and you always crash them when I'm not around!"). Thanks to that, I can gladly share the experience with all of you:

I started flying in the early evening just to make sure everything is ok with the plane and the "standard" set of lights is working as expected. I also needed to refresh my skills a bit because I just completed the rebuild of this plane after one unfortunate event (mid-air collision with 3D balsa plane).

After the short flight I made the very first approach and landing with the landing light turned on. It didn't change much at this point because the light was barely visible on the ground, but it definitely looked awesome.

After the second take-off I made one longer flight, trying out some slow precision flying with the landing light on and off to get used to the idea and the look of the plane and the light spot on the ground.

With the evening slowly crawling in, I was still exploring the benefits of having the ground below the plane illuminated - it raises the altitude judgment to the whole new level.

When the night fully settled in, I did some "free flying" with mild aerobatics - again with the landing light on and off - to learn how the bright light source changes the feel and orientation.

Just after that, I made a several take-offs and landings - it was the easiest and most precise landing practice I ever did, even compared with flying with the clear skies during the day.

At the end of the battery (yes, I did all the flying on single charge of 2200mAh 3s LiPo) I tried to make one landing with the landing light turned off...

... but that was a big mistake, so I quickly turned it on again (the frames above and below are less than a second apart).

 

SUMMARY

Testing results were much better than expected. As you can see above, the solution I choose was more than enough to ensure safe take-offs and landings even at the darkest night. Low power consumption and the ability to turn the lights off mid-air ensure the lowest possible impact on the flight endurance, and the additional "blink factor" cannot be overlooked. The added margin of safety, combined with the low cost and ease of installation makes the landing light a "must have" for everyone who wants to enjoy this hobby regardless of the time of day. Especially in winter, when many of us cannot enjoy the hobby during the daytime.

BONUS FACTS

The airplane used in this project is modified in more ways than the one just described. In the order of significance:

 - main LG supporting struts (the lower ones) are now hinged, allowing much more flexibility for LG legs and thus softer landings;

- tail feathers are removable (!);

- the fuselage is 3/8" / 9mm wider than the original allowing easier battery replacement and improving access to the internals;

- magnetic hatch added to the nose to allow access to motor/ESC connections for easier component replacement;

- large "cargo" opening on the bottom of the fuselage is covered by another magnetic hatch.

All of those are being tested and - if they turn out to be successful - will be described in another article.

COMMENTS

Neskair on February 4, 2016
Cool!
Log In to reply
Bayboos on February 5, 2016
Thank You.
Log In to reply
Sky Pirate on February 5, 2016
Awesome job! I was actually planning on adding a lighting system to some of my projects. What are your thoughts on the Turnigy LED System (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8850__Turnigy_R_C_LED_Lighting_System.html)? Would this and some lighting strips work well in your opinion? Where did you get the landing lights? Thanks!
Log In to reply
Bayboos on February 5, 2016
Thank You.

The LED system you linked seems to be a nice option for scale looking point light sources. As explained in the article, this type of light is great for indicating plane's location and definitely improves scale look but it doesn't do much for orientation and awareness of surroundings.

For the best experience, you will need to add both spread light sources (LED strips are good for that) and landing lights. Note that the light system you linked is powered by 5v (either from BEC or from the receiver); while most of the high intensity LEDs are designed to work on 12v (e.g. directly from 3s LiPo).

I got my "landing lights" from banggood.com, but you can get similar led panels almost everywhere and they are almost never expensive.
Log In to reply
Sky Pirate on February 5, 2016
Luckily I'm in Arizona so flying in complete darkness is not as big of an issue (unless you are seeking out night flying). The main purpose for me would be to ensure orientation during the twilight hour when white foam board and gray sky looks the same. I'm thinking a combination would be best.

I really like how you mounted the forward landing light, it gives it a very similar look to a Cessna 172's light. Thanks again and best of luck, truly a great project!
Log In to reply
Bayboos on February 5, 2016
Thank you, and good luck to you, too!
Log In to reply
Flyingninja on February 5, 2016
Great article! I love the huge led panel!
Log In to reply
Bayboos on February 6, 2016
I'm glad you like it. The panel was the best value to price ratio I could find while providing the exact amount of light I needed. Plus it is light and easy to install on any flat surface. Sometimes the easiest solutions are the best.
Log In to reply
themistocles3 on February 6, 2016
Very smart setup. Well thought out. Great write up too! Can't wait to see your hinged LG assembly. I always thought the FT storch needed articulating and dampened struts to bring it up to a more realistic action. Hard landings are hard to watch. More so in my mind than a crash because the scale storch is like the short course truck of planes. A forgiving strut assemble would be welcome on this bird. Thanks for sharing.
Log In to reply
Bayboos on February 6, 2016
Thank you.

Yes, the original landing gear is definitely lacking in this one quality; but the hinged one proved to be more difficult than expected. It's really hard to make it work good enough while still looking nice and not being overcomplicated; and the most importantly: not rip the plane apart. The first prototype was a disaster; I had to glue the fuselage back together after just several moderately hard landings. Now I'm at the point where everything holds up nice, but looks like "tape&wire temporary repair" (which it actually is) rather than anything else.

I have a couple more ideas for the landing gear (and the whole airframe) of this plane that will - if successful - move the STO(V?)L experience to the whole new level. So stay tuned.
Log In to reply
themistocles3 on February 7, 2016
http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2001/03/stuff_eng_detail_fi156.htm

This is the best set of detailed pics I can find of the actual gear. Deceptively complex and the cowling over the shocks obscures the heart of the system. Would love to find blueprints.
Log In to reply
Bayboos on February 7, 2016
Thank you for the link. I already did a lot of research on this subject, but never came across this particular page.

What's hidden beneath the covers is not a mystery: it's a long travel, pneumatic, piston shock absorber. The problem is how to replicate it on this particular scale. The plane is too small to use anything similar to the "full scale" planes, yet too big to make the simplest readily available solutions work.

Besides, I really want to keep the construction simple (comparable to the rest of the airframe) so anyone who can build the plane will actually be able to repeat the experience. That rules out all the "multiple moving parts" and all the "multiple different materials" solutions. I'd rather stick to the original Flitetest's LG layout; just make it more flexible without destroying the plane in the process.
Log In to reply
Szilard on February 9, 2016
Excelent idea and job, being up at the Arctic Circle I will copy-paste your idea, if you let me. Congratulation.
Log In to reply
Bayboos on February 9, 2016
Thank you. That's what this article is here for: to let other people repeat - and enhance, if possible - the experience. Feel free to use as much as you like from this and other of my articles; and please be so kind to report the results. Good luck, and Have Fun!
Log In to reply
themistocles3 on July 16, 2017
I remembered this article first when I decided to wire for lights. What manual switch did you use? Local hobby store had minimal choices.
Log In to reply
Bayboos on July 17, 2017
It doesn't need to be a specific type or size, any bi-stable (on-off) switch will do. The current draw for LEDs is so small you don't need to worry about it. I'm using something like this: http://store.rclighthouse.com/content/168950/Switches/TAM-041-0002.jpg
and it's more than enough.

Good luck and have fun!
Log In to reply
themistocles3 on July 21, 2017
Okay, thanks! I have some of those but thought they might not handle the amps w the landing light.

As for the landing gear...wow. I have tinkered. I tried soldering up some parts and succeeded only in stinking up my garage and truck. I have heated, pounded wire ends flat and, drilled out for screws. I found springs that worked okay and in the end, it was all to fragile to withstand anything but the perfect landing. I have all but given up at this point. It is a worthy adversary.

With two toddlers in the house now, I am out of time for tinkering. I couldn't even make it to flite fest because one puked on the way down. She is fine but, my poor truck...

Thanks again for the write up. It's a source of inspiration.
Log In to reply

You need to log-in to comment on articles.


Winter Swappables Part 2: Landing Lights