The Ridge Runner: Elevating the FT Wing

by Sparkie | September 21, 2015 | (31) Posted in Projects

The Ridge Runner Glider Wing


Greetings to the Flite Test Community

Recently I have been looking around for a slope soaring glider. So I had a look through the Flite Test articles and the Flite Test store to see what I could come up with. There are a few slope soarers, it is true, but what I wanted was an agile polyhedral winged glider. Something that would fly on two channels, which was a step up from the Simple Soarer, but designed for slope soaring. Unfortunately there didn't seem to be anything that fit this set of requirements.

The Wing Design Process

The only option to pursue was to design and build a slope soaring glider completely from scratch. I did alot of research, and I mean, alot. There are many factors involved, but the fundamental issue is the profile of the wing. Foam board doesn't really lend itself easily to producing complex airfoil profiles. And especially not using simple and expedient Flite Test build techniques, which is a part of my personal build mandate for all of my designs. Indeed, to create a reasonably good slope soaring glider I was going to have to come up with a solution to producing a more complex airfoil shape using those very same simple and reproducible Flite Test techniques. 

The solution, in the end, is simple and elegant once you have the answer: introduce camber into the airfoil profile. Camber in a wing is where the bottom profile of the wing is not flat, but curved, in a similar manner to the top profile. A way to think about this is if you imagine a typical flite test wing cut in section, then if you could bend the tip of the wing profile down, keep the middle section flat and then bend the rear section of the wing profile down as well. See the picture below, showing my Ridge Runner wing camber:

Camber has the wonderful effect of producing lift, and bags of it, but it can also produce drag if too much camber is designed into the wing. Camber produces more lift by moving the air from the trailing edge down, thus pushing the wing up. Camber also reduces the amount of introduced turbulence produced by the wing's passage through the air: this is a premium quality for a glider wing. To explain: turbulence created by the down directed airflow, from the top of the wing, hits air coming backwards from the flat bottom of the wing; they are moving in different directions and at different speeds, which creates turbulence. A glider wing can use camber to merge the airflows into a similar down direction; this has the effect of producing more lift and reducing lost lift energy.

Camber is not a silver bullet solution, it will not solve your lift problems without limitation. In fact there are several downsides to camber. Cambered wings can introduce very adverse yaw in ailerons, a cambered wing will also move back the centre point of lift for the wing, changing the CG and also less lift is generated at faster airspeeds than lower airspeeds, which is inefficient.


The Ridge Runner Solution

The way to introduce the correct and desirable amount of camber is to use camber formers. I have devised a set of formers, for foam board wing construction, which are pinned underneath the wing during the construction phase. The bottom plate of the folded wing has two 50% score cuts used to create a ridge, which is then folded over the formers. Hot glue seams (glue spars) are used, in exactly the same manner as for the top of the wing, to turn the ridge into permenant camber in the bottom part of the wing. The top wing section is then created as per usual, by folding it over a foam main spar. Then the formers are removed. This ridged wing gave me the inspiration for the name  of this technique and the slope soarer model's name: the Ridge Runner.


The Wing Build

The Wing is not difficult to build, the main theme of the build is accuracy: cut out all of the plans pieces very carefully, so as not to introduce errors. Great care should be taken to ensure that the camber templates are drawn and cut out very accurately. 

Take all of the wing components for one wing; the main body of the wing, the main spar and the camber templates


I find it easier to number the camber templates 1-5, as I cut them out, from top to bottom on the Ridge Runner plans. This way once they all get jumbled up I can figure out which template to put where.


Cut all of the 50% score cuts on the wing, there are 10 to make: 5 on the main wing and 5 on the tapered end wing.


Turn the wing over and crack the leading edge cut on both the main wing...

and the tapered wing components.


Fold both of the upper surfaces of the wing completely over and make sure that they fit neatly and precisely together.


Bevel cut each side of the leading edge fold to allow the wing to fold back creating a nice rounded leading edge.


Fold the wing out flat and use packing tape to re-enforce the leading edge fold.


Turn the wing over so that the inside is facing up. Now take your trusty BBQ skewer and open up all of the 50% score cuts, include the glue spars on the upper wing as well.


Put your hand underneath the bottom of the wing and carefully crack, all the way along, the rear camber spar...


 and then all away along the front camber spar.


Now comes the part you have all been waiting for, setting up the camber formers. There are 5 camber formers:

  • The No.1 camber former fits along the root edge on the bottom wing.
  • The No.2 camber former fits a third of the way along the wing (15.6mm from the root of the wing).
  • The No.3 camber former fits two thirds of the way along the wing (31.3mm from the root of the wing).
  • The No.4 camber former fits at the end of the main wing on the edge.
  • The No.5 camber former fits at the end of the bottom part of the tapered wing

In the picture below the formers are placed roughly where they will be located for ease of understanding. See the blue lines marked on the plans for the exact positioning of camber former 2 and 3.


Next attach the camber formers to the underneath of the bottom of the wing; make sure to butt the formers up against the trailing edge of the wing to ensure correct placement and that they are fully in contact with the underneath surface of the bottom of the wing. Pin them in place.


Extra detail of camber former No.1.


And extra detail of camber former No.5.


Now put hot glue into the two camber forming glue spars. Wipe away any excess hot glue.


Now glue on the main spar. Place it right in the middle of the two camber glue spars. Make sure the ends line up with the wing ends.


Now remove the pins, one by one, from their current locations, and insert the pins through the rear of the camber formers into the trailing edge of the wing to hold them in place from the back only.

Fold the wing over to impress the leading edge, into the foam, for the main wing and the tapered part of the wing.

Put hot glue on the first glue spar behind the leading edge, then the leading edge and then the front half of the main spar. Fold the wing over and press down evenly along the main spar until the glue sets.


The root of the wing should look like this below:


Now crack the rear glue spar, bend it back and run a bead of hot glue along it and then the trailing edge where the two trailing edge parts of the wing meet.


Press the top of the wing down firmly until the glue sets. Repeat the above process for the tapered part of the wing as well.

You can now remove all the pins and the camber formers; we now have a set amount of camber introduced to a foam board wing.

To complete the wing build there are a few more easy steps to complete, which if you have built the Simple Soarer will be very familiar to you. First build the other wing and complete the following tasks:

  • Tape the two wings together using packing tape on the bottom of the wing
  • Run a good bead of glue around all of the root chord faces
  • Put the wing right side up on the work bench, place the provided dihedral gauge underneath the wing tip, whilst holding one side of the wing down
  • This sets the dihedral in the middle. Hold this all in place until the glue sets - about 2-3 minutes
  • Tape the top of the wing, along the central main chord glue seam, using packing tape

Secondly, you need to put in the polyhedral on the wing tips:

  • Cut through the top of the wing and the main spar where the tapered wing meets the main wing
  • Open up the cut with the tip of a BBQ skewer, as you would a glue spar on the wing
  • Put a good bead of hot glue into the opened up seam
  • Hold the main wing flat on a work bench
  • Lift the wing tip and place the provided dihedral/polyhedral gauge underneath the tip of the wing
  • Hold this all in place until the glue has set

Lastly glue a popsickle stick in the middle of the wing on the trailing edge. This is to strengthen the trailing edge where the rubber bands go over the wing. 


The Fuselage

The fuselage is a simple slab sided build, with the two servos mounted inside the middle of the body using a foamboard template. The control rods run down the fuselage tail and out through slots cut in the fuselage side, exactly the same as for the Simple Soarer.


The wing mounts on the central fuselage are thin popsickle sticks glued to the foam board to give a bit more strength. You could easily use pieces of balsa.

Push through some BBQ skewers to make the wing holders and re-enforce the holes with pieces of gift card or some other suitable substitute.


The nose opens up halfway along the top to allow access for the battery - re-enforce the hinge with tape. 

You are going to have to put a bit of weight in the front to obtain the correct balance at the CG point. I have about 125g of extra weight in the nose. Note: weight is good for a slope soarer, it needs it to penetrate through the wind.

The tail assembly is glued together and then inserted into the rear of the fuselage, like most other Flite Test tail assemblies. As the tail is so large I added a 3mm carbon fibre spa to the front of the vertical stabiliser and then covered it in white tape. The spa goes all the way down to the bottom of the fuselage, straight through the lower part of the vertical stabiliser . You could use a BBQ skewer to acheive the same effect.

Flight Experience



The video above demonstrates the lift potential of this type of wing. In fact, this type of wing airfoil is pretty typical for a model glider and nothing new, I have just never seen it used on a foam board glider before. There are a couple of sequences in the video where the glider is actually catching updraughts and soaring rather than just slope soaring.

This technique creates a wing which produces lift like nothing I have ever flown that was made out of foam board. I have flown this glider wing many times now and it is comparible (in my opinion) to the balsa and monokote gliders being flown on the slopes where I fly. There are, of course, a few more things I have done than to just introduce camber into the wing, I am pushing the flight envelope afterall!

The wing has a couple of other modifications, when compared to the Simple Soarer. The wing tips are angled back and tapered somewhat to allow for a faster turning wing and the wing is narrower, much narrower, it cuts through the air much more cleanly than the Simple Soarer: put the nose down now and the Ridge Runner will surge forwards through the air. Additionally the fuselage and the tail configuration have changed. The fuselage is thicker through the tail section and much more sturdy, it has to be because the vertical stabiliser and the rudder assembly are massive.

This glider is only a two channel set up, it has a polyhedral wing with no ailerons, only rudder and elevator channels, yet it will roll due to the size and configuration of the rudder. Put the Ridge Runner into a shallow dive, to build up speed, push the rudder right over and watch it roll. Put in some forward stick and then fly inverted! Fabulous! This rudder configuration allows you to fly a two channel glider like a glider with ailerons, admittedly once you have learned the slightly modified techniques.

The wing is also incredibly strong, I can hold it by wing end, with one hand, waggle it up and down and it is very solid, no flex at all. The double curve of the airfoil profile introduces a vast amount of mechanical strength, which a flat bottomed wing just cannot achieve. Flying inverted doesn't seem to distort the wing either.



Sept. 2015 - Full size A0 Ridge Runner Plans: FB Ridge Runner Plans V1.1

  • Added a centimetre and an Inch scale

Oct 2015 - Full size A0 Ridge Runner Plans: FB Ridge Runner Plans V1.2

  • Modified tail location slots to create a stronger join

I have attached plans for the Ridge Runner, for those of you who are interested in building the Ridge Runner slope soaring glider; this includes plans for the camber formers and the Ridge Runner Wing.


Wing Span: 1500mm.

Wing Area: 229238 mm sq.

Root Wing Chord: 174.6mm

Weight: 592g - with a 500mAh 2S 7.4V (You can literally fly for hours)

Servos: Hextronik 9g x 2

Electronics: 5-6V BEC and an Orange R610RX receiver (No ESC required)

CG: 55.5mm back from root chord leading edge

I am going to play with this glider throughout the summer, which is just about to start down here in Australia, and I will report back in another article on how well it fares in thermals. The results so far look very promising and I am hopeful it will perform well.

Happy slope soaring! 

Best regards to all

Jeff Clarke




The-One-Who-Never-Crashes on September 25, 2015
I have to build one!!!
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Sparkie on September 27, 2015
Contact me with any questions about the build process. I am really interested to see how well it flies for other people. Cheers.
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LongHaul on September 25, 2015
Awesome wing design...inspired!
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Sparkie on September 27, 2015
Thanks for the great feedback!
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Bayboos on September 25, 2015
Wonderful idea and a very nice article. Definitely worth rating and sharing. Good luck with you summer!
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Sparkie on September 27, 2015
Thanks for the positive feedback. I will write up a report on the thermal performance of the Ridge Runner some time during the summer.
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CrashnDash on September 25, 2015
I really like your design, I will be downloading the plans as I finish posting this comment. By the way, In one of the pics I saw your glue gun. I've not seen one like that and I thought I had seen a lot of them, I own at least a dozen of them. I'm curious what kind that is and how do you like it? Most (but not all) of the guns I own have something I like about them, but all of them have something I don't like about them, so I'm always on the look out for a different one. Thanks for the great design and the great article.

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Sparkie on September 27, 2015
Thanks for the positive feedback. My normal glue gun blew up when I turned it on, just before I started the build log. I bought the first one I could find in Lincraft: a basic 100W model with the brand name Jasart. The glue gun works okay for what it is. I was actually thinking of buying a reliable one from the Flite Test store as I blow up a glue gun about every 6 weeks.
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Canair on September 26, 2015
Mate, this is beautifully engineered and seems to soar like a bird. Great job, thank you for sharing.

2 things:

1. Do you think you could mount a motor on the front like a Radion?

2. When are you designing your next plane? : )
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Sparkie on September 27, 2015
The Ridge Runner was designed expressly for Slope Soaring, but I imagine a motor could be fitted to the front. I suspect that the lift created would have to be countered by a fair amount of down elevator, just like the Radian. I don't think it will take a folding prop. though, which will then leave you with a drag issue and possibly some instability. So that would require a complete nose redesign to accommodate a motor in a satisfactory way and to make it an electric glider, which kind of moves the model away from my primary design criterion of a slope soarer. But hey, please feel free to adapt the design to accommodate your wishes, it would be very interesting to see how that comes out.
I have already completed the build of my next possible design, it is all ready for a maiden, but I am waiting for the right weather - lets just say it has two engines...
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moggy on September 26, 2015
very Well done ..

i am going modify the wings for my foamboard Fiu in the same way
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Sparkie on September 27, 2015
Oh I would very much like to see how that turns out. Please feel free to contact me if you need any assistance.
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moggy on September 27, 2015
all ready have a pair wings cut out 1/2" blue insulation foam I might just rig up a sanding jig to add the Camber in the wing . I will Build a second a second set of wings from foam board .. just getting back into Building after 30 years of marriage and kids
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1959cutter on September 27, 2015
i like the place you are flying,with the clouds and GREEN grass and farmland.
if i could afford to, i would travel to australia every fall from here in the arizona desert, to enjoy year'round springtime.
great design,i will try and modify this for DLG (or maybe not) either way i like the great detail,thank you for sharing this!
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Sparkie on September 28, 2015
We have had a particularly long and wet winter this year in the state of Victoria in Australia, it won't look like this is eight weeks time though after the sun has had a chance to dry things up a bit. :)
Thanks for your positive feedback. Cheers.
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Flyingninja on September 27, 2015
I think I might build one! And how do you transfer the plans to the foam?
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Sparkie on September 27, 2015
Hi, check out this short youtube video that describes how I transfer plans to foam board:
I hope this helps.
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ftwingnut on September 27, 2015
Great job on the wing design. I had also struggled with the knowledge that a glider wing should have camber, but always pictured it like a single layer of foam board shaped into an airfoil, as if you only used the top layer of an FT wing. Obviously that would be way too weak to handle any flight stresses, so I just continued to use the standard flat-bottom airfoil design of the FT wing. Your idea is amazing, it was one of those, "Doh, why didn't I think of that??" moments. I am going to start building one of these right away, and, like 1959cutter above, I am also going to start design on a DLG that uses this wing camber design.
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Sparkie on September 28, 2015
Thanks for the feedback. I had considered making a DLG using this technique, but I had doubts that I would be able to keep the weight down low enough using Australian foam board, which is 0.32g/sq. in. as compared to the DTFB density of 0.19g/sq. in. So it would be wonderful to see if it can be done. Keep me posted on your progress, I'd really like to see how that works out.
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moggy on September 27, 2015
I wonder if Camber can be added in a KFM wing build , you really got my mind rolling ..
on my next Alula or weazel build
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CrashnDash on September 28, 2015
Hello moggy,
I would like to know how that works out. Do you have a plan for a FB Alula? I would love to try one of those.
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ttprigg on September 27, 2015
Thanks for another great article and a glider! I'm going to down load and give it a try-
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CrashnDash on September 27, 2015
Hello again Jeff,
First of all, thanks for the info on the glue gun, I will look it up to see if it is available here. When I left my first comment I wasn't familiar with you and did not realize (sorry about the zed, it's a Yank thing) where you are. I had quickly scanned that article, looked at the pretty pictures and down loaded the plans. Not wanting to be in such a hurry as to be rude, I left you the comment. Well now I have taken the time to give your article a proper read and tape the tiles together. I have built a section of the wing for testing. I did not build it to ever fly, just be abused on my work table. I must confess that I didn't entirely believe your claims about the strength of the wing. Well, it appears I will be eating crow this evening. This wing is unbelievably stout! This style of wing should EASILY stand up to having a peg stuck in a tip and slinging it for all your worth. The only caveat being reinforcing the foam around the peg.
I hope you are not offended, but my first application of your design, build a new wing for my wife's FT Old Fogey. I built one for her last spring at 150% scale. The single surface wing at the larger size required lift struts from the git go, as anticipated. What it did not anticipate was torquing/twisting of the wings along the span. At any speed much above stall the wing begins to twist and oscillate. Of course the twist works in such a way that when one wing is twisting back, increasing it's angle of attack, the opposite wing is doing the opposite twist. I'm sure you can imagine what this does to the controllability of the model. I changed the lift struts from Cessna style to Piper Cub style. It fixed the problem but now my wife finds the assembly too troublesome "with all those silly sticks". I can imagine your wing design being applied to a number of existing "Old Timer" free flight designs. Many of those had under cambered wings. I've tried replicate a few designs (Playboy, Lanzo Bomber, etc.) with the FT technique. However to build them at their original size I had to resort to the box style double surface wings and I was never satisfied with how they flew. The main complaint being that they flew too fast to immulate the originals flight profile. I have no doubt that you style of wing will solve that problem.
Fear not I am going to build your Ridge Runner as you intended. I will need to stop off at the Dollar Tree on the way home as I presently have no complete boards. There are no slopes near me but we get thermals a' plenty. I regularly put up my 30 year old Gentle Lady and go play with the Turkey Buzzards while I sit on the back deck. When the conditions are right they come out by the dozens. They are fantastic guides to follow with the model. Just go where they are and you will go up. Since my son built his quad-copter I don't even mess with the hi-start any more. I've rigged a simple release that hangs the lady nose down by her tail, my son takes the quad straight up to about 800 feet in just a matter of seconds. Then I just lay the rudder stick to full left deflection and the lady falls away on her own. The trick to taking the glider up under a quad is to use a long hang line. If it is too short the glider can get to swinging and the pendulum effect will overwhelm the control boards auto stability function. Then it all come tumbling down. We hang the lady on a 20' line and have had no problems since, even in windy conditions. I believe that the longer, slower pendulum is slow enough that it is a none issue for the auto stability. Well I'm rambling on, well done on your design. I think we will be seeing a lot of it in the future.
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Sparkie on September 28, 2015
That's an awesome idea, I was only thinking about glider wings initially, but there would seem to be some scope for using the technique on other heavily cambered wings, like the FT Old Speedster and the FT Old Fogey. What about a 150-200% FT Scout as well.... Mmmmm, food for thought.
Thanks for your feedback and contribution to the discussion. Cheers.
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rcjoseb on September 28, 2015
Beautiful wing design!
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CrashnDash on September 28, 2015
I'm almost finished with a 160% Scout. I built it as a biplane so the inter-plane struts should keep the single surface wings from buckling. After I posted here last evening I put a coat of min-wax on it. I was thinking about your wing as I was watching it dry. The wife might just get a new scout instead of a reworked Old Fogey...Looks like I'll need to grab a few extra pieces of foamboard on the way home from work today.
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CrashnDash on September 29, 2015
Hi Jeff, I've just started the build on the Ridge Runner and have hit a snag. I've got the pattern all taped together and I'm merrily pin pricking my way through the pieces. I always start with smaller pieces like tails and hatches and the like so I can start with foamboard from my scrap stock before starting in on the virgin sheets. Having done the tail, the camber templates and some of the fuselage pieces I moved onto the wing. Now understand that I have already built a "test" section of wing. However it was a straight, non-tapered section that is 20" long. (I made three of the #1 camber templates) I made this from a half a piece of foamboard I had left over. Well this evening I laid a wing template down on a full sheet (20" X 30") and the template ran long at both ends of the foam board. I slid and tilted the template and different angles but this template is not going to fit. It is only about 35-40mm too long. I'm suspecting two things. One; the scale got off a bit when I printed the plans and my pattern is oversized. (There is no scale on the print) Or, your Austrailian foamboard is larger than the Adams board.
I know I'm going to need to splice some boards together. If I just splice on at the tip that splice will be quite visable out at the tip. (I could camflage it with a stripe I suppose.) But I would prefer to splice it at the poly joint. Can you think of a reason I should not do it there? [poly joint]
My wing pattern, measured at the root end and laid out flat is precisely 310mm. Are my prints scaled properly?
Thanks, Bob
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Sparkie on September 29, 2015
Hi Bob. The plans are A0 size which is multiples of A4, so the scale should be fine. However, yes in Australia we can obtain 800 X 1000mm size foam board, which I tend to use. So splice the wing where you suggested at the poly point, where the outer wing polyhedral is set. You're going to cut 95% of the way through the wing at that point anyway in order to set the correct angle for the wing polyhedral. The half wing from root to tip is 750mm, long. The straight part is 470mm long, the wing tip is 280mm long. Thanks for pointing out that I don't have a scale on the plans. I will rectify that forthwith.
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Sparkie on September 29, 2015
Hi Bob.
I just figured out you meant the root chord dimension not the wing length. The root chord is 174.6mm long, so laid out flat it should be 349.2mm or approx. 13 3/4 inches.
Hope this info helps.
Cheers Jeff
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Sparkie on September 29, 2015
I have updated the FB Ridge Runner plans to include a centimetre and an Inch scale (V1.1). I hope this helps with printing out the plans. Cheers Jeff.
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Sparkie on September 29, 2015
Printing Note: Print at actual size of A0 or select 'tile print' for the same file in Adobe and set to either A4 or Letter for your required paper size.
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moggy on September 29, 2015
I found another method for an under camber wing
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CrashnDash on October 1, 2015
Hello All, I am building my Ridge Runner after building a 'test' section of wing the other night. I had hoped to be further along but my attention has been required elsewhere for the last two days. So nothing to report there. I did want to share the results of my 'testing' on the test wing. Nothing overly scientific mind you, but I thought it would be worth sharing.
My test wing is essentially one of inboard sections of the wing, but without the taper and it's a bit longer than 'stock'. I built it from half a sheet of DTFB. It is 20" long but the same chord as the root. For the load test I supported the wing by setting each end at the center flat portion on inverted shot glasses. Next I started stacking cans from the pantry at the center of the span. First trip from the pantry was 4 cans of chicken broth at 16.4 oz. (464.98 grams) each. The wing only sagged slightly but was nowhere near it's limit. Another raid on the pantry yielded 2 more cans of broth and a can of corn. The corn is a bit heavier than the broth at 17.46 oz (495.06 grams). All tolled; 115.86 oz. Folks, that's right at 7-1/4 pounds! (3,284.94 grams) A quick estimation; considering that the all up weight on the Ridge Runner is advertised as 592 grams (20.88 oz). About 5.5 G.
Now the wing was deflected almost 1/2", but the next morning (7 hours later) the wing had not deflected any further. I removed all the cans and returned them to the pantry before the wife noticed them missing. When I got back to the wing I realized it now had a bow. It was less than when the wing was loaded, but it was still a pretty good curve. Still I was happy with the results. I closed the door on the shop and went to work. 9-1/2 hours later when I returned home the wing had straightened almost back to flat! That was not expected.
Bottom line is that this is a very strong wing design. In actual use it will never the subjected to that kind of load over such a long duration. I know that this does not correlate exactly as flight load testing and that wasn't my intent. Honestly I was just having a little trouble believing that this foam and glue only structure (no carbon fiber or wood) was as strong as Mr. Clarke said it was at the end of the Article. I believe it now. With any luck I will get to get back to the real build tomorrow. It's my intention to do some glider flying this week end.
I took a few photos to document what I did but I don't know how to post them or if it's even possible. If somebody that knows how or if it can be done I am more than happy to share them.
Cheers Everybody.
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Crash and Burn RC on October 19, 2015
Wow! Awesome design!
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Sparkie on October 19, 2015
Thanks for the great feedback. I just want to help push the boundaries of what can be achieved using foam board. Cheers!
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Dallas69 on October 20, 2015
Wow this is a rad build! My little brothers and I built 3 of these together. I'm 39 and find it hard to hang out with them sometimes because I don't "party" but this has brought us all together with this fantastic hobbie. THANK YOU all at flight test for your wonderful work in bringing a community based approach to this very cool hobby.regards Dallas and family. Peace:-)
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Mr.stratosphere on November 13, 2015
Beautiful job and great attention to detail. Thanks for sharing!
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quimney on November 26, 2015
Wow! what an amazing plane. My first introduction to RC planes happened 34 years ago when someone gave me a glider. I threw it off a windy hill and crashed/repaired repeatedly until I couldn't repair it any more. School, work, and raising a family took priority so I forgot about the hobby until a couple years ago when the gift of a plane prompted me to find the FT website and I started building foam planes. I learned to fly and design my own powered planes but I never forgot those first days standing on a hillside with the wind in my face and the pieces of my plane scattered below me.

Seeing your plane brought back all those memories and I just had to build it. I tried again to fly on a slope but I really haven't found a suitable hillside yet. I crashed it again and again on a poor hill in too high a wind but I have to say it held up great. The last crash mangled the nose pretty bad so I decided to cut it off and add a motor with a folding prop. I have to say I love it! It still weighs only 381 grams with a 500 mah battery and it will soar forever. Now I can fly it off my field and get some real practice in. I'm only learning how to use this plane but I have already managed a 12 minute flight with the power off. When I'm good enough I will find that perfect hill and complete the circle started so long ago.

I've built quite a few planes, some good and some not so good but this one is a keeper. Thanks for sharing your plans and excellent build instructions.

Best Regards,
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Wolfgang1402 on January 9, 2016
Great wings, Thanks for sharing. :)
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louischarles.davisrealbrown on November 7, 2016
Looks great, I´ll give it a try here in México.
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Huzenwil on June 24, 2017
I took the Ridge Runner to go for two day to a place in the Swiss mountains. Although I’m in the 60thies I’m a beginner. But I had two perfect days flying this plane. I installed a motor so I didn’t have to worry about hiking for a long time to rescue my Ridge runner. Flying the Ridge Runner is a pleasure and relaxing. But its performance is quite closed to high sophisticated designed planes.
Best regards

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dakota196 on May 5, 2019
I am new to the hobby and I am looking to get into slope soaring. I am 60 and just looking for a way to fly and relax at the same time. There is always a breeze here on Whibey island, washington, usa. An island in Puget Sound. Plenty of cliffs and drops to the ocean below. Just need to learn how. I think this will perfect for me.
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The Ridge Runner: Elevating the FT Wing