Boxer 74 swappable scratch build

by bartholomule | June 28, 2013 | (4) Posted in Projects

Background

Having made a few of the planes in the swappable series, I had to try making my own design from scratch.  As I find unconventional aircraft fascinating, I had to pick a fairly obscure plane.  The Lockspeiser LDA-01 (later renamed to Boxer 500 -- see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lockspeiser_LDA-01) is about as weird as they come and seemed to be a perfect shape to hold a swappable pod.

The plane itself is a pusher, has dual rudders, elevons, two true wings (not just a canard) with the front wing containing only flaps and not an elevator.  There is an angle difference between the front and back wings so that they will not both stall at the same time.  The Boxer 500 variant differed from the LDA-01 with the rudders positioned at the wingtips.  This seemed like it would be much easier to build and potentially provide better rudder control with the control surfaces further away from the center of mass.

After measuring every picture I could find, I made a list of all the general dimensions and sketched out some initial plans for something that is approximately 1/7 scale (14.8%) with a 40 inch wingspan.

 

The resulting plans

The wing spars use a tab similar to what the FT spitfire has to join the two angled wings.  While these plans don't show a proper cutout for the tab to rest against the opposite spar, it was cut in there.

 

The fuselage

 

 

 

View from the front

Like most of the views, the servos are completely hidden.  All four servos are in the rear wing; one for each rudder, and one for each of the elevons.

 

Side view:

 

View from the back:

 

Wing attachment

Due to the wings being angled up 4 degrees from horizontal, a raised wing retainer needed to be built.  I made this version with tabs that are inserted into the fuselage, but after more thought, this seems like a bad idea in the case of a crash.  If I make another version, I would probably make a triangular shape that is permanently attached to the fuselage and a small v-shaped groove in this attachment so that the rubber bands would stretch and the wing could slide off without causing damage to the body.

 

View showing the front opening 

 

Elevon in action

From here you can see the skewers for the wing tie-downs.  I put these right below the pod so that any upward pull would pull against the pod and spread out the force of overly-tight rubber bands.  There are a total of seven skewers in this plane -- two for each set of landing gear, two for the rear wing, and the normal pod-retaining skewer.

 

Flight tests

I haven't successfully flown it yet, as I need to make another pod with some beefier components.  My initial hand-launched test flite didn't move more than 20 feet horizontally before the air speed dropped to the stall point.  The HK donkey 1550 just doesn't have enough power to make this thing go.  While this is supposed to have a very wide range of allowable CG, I had to mount my 3s 850 battery all the way up front to keep it in the region where I believed the proper CG should have been.  The under-powered first flight was at least mosttly flat, so I didn't mess up that much.

As a learning experiment, this was fairly useful.  I learned that trying  to judge a motor's thrust by holding it in my hand and giving it full throttle just doesn't work.  

 

What I would do differently 

I have some better ideas for wing mounting where the tabs won't tear into the fuselage, and have decided that the friction fit of the front wing isn't sufficient to withstand a crash (it pushes back into the plane and cuts into the fuselage as well), so it needs to be glued.

The area above the rear landing gear needs to be reinforced a bit more than the small strip of foam board I placed there.  The crash pushed the wire for the gear into the bottom of the plane.

I also think that I would make the wings a bit wider.  The lift to weight ratio of these 5 inch wings (which are close to scale) just seems a bit small for any kind of low-speed flying, so making them 7 inches would probably improve things, but it would still need a much beefier motor.

COMMENTS

AdamS on June 28, 2013
That looks really sweet! Interesting design too! I would like to see a video of it in the air! If I may recommend one thing though. I'm not sure if you will still have ground clearance with the prop if you do this, but maybe a larger prop will help. Awesome job, I hope it does well in the future!
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bartholomule on June 29, 2013
I tried a larger prop with no luck. The tiny motor just warmed up a lot and there was not really any noticeable change. I plugged a whole bunch of combinations into a calculator and I should be able to come up with a 1.43 thrust to weight ratio.and still have some ground clearance. I calculated my initial test combination at about 0.4, so it should be some improvement.
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Carmatious on June 29, 2013
that is really nice, is it based on the Peace Drone? looks a little similar. What are you going to do with the extra space? The fuselage looks like a great place to install batteries or FPV equipment. Really like it, nice job! Oh have you flown it yet?
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bartholomule on June 29, 2013
The peace drone has some similarities, but this is a scale version of an actual cargo-carrying aircraft. There's a youtube video describing early prototypes: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLewWbAltm8

I'm not really planning to do anything with the space at the moment.

I did try to fly it, but I need to make a power pod with a much bigger motor to get enough thrust.
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cooper.ellis on June 30, 2013
that looks really cool, good job.
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rcspaceflight on June 30, 2013
I'm in the middle of working on a pusher style plane of my own design. You'll be surprised just how picky the CG can be. I think it's even pickier with a pusher style. When I had my CG too far forward I would give the plane full elevator up and it would slowly fall down at full throttle. It would just flip around in the air if it was too far back. My plane is 30" long and having the CG off by an inch forward or backwards was enough to make it unflyable. Interesting enough, however, was that it didn't seem to fly any different if I had the CG too far forward by three inches, or one inch.

Where do you have the CG? On my pusher style plane, which has the wings as far back as possible and a canard in the front (similar to your plane, but yours is a front wing, not canard), I have the CG right in front of the rear wing. That seems to be the perfect spot for me and should be a good starting point for your plane.
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bartholomule on July 1, 2013
Thanks for the suggestion. I was aiming for 3/4 of the distance back between the two wings. Unfortunately I seem to have missed the right spot, and caused much more damage due to the added weight of the larger components/battery. It just arced up an back down over a 50 or so foot distance with no elevator response. After I rebuild the front wing, I'll try going back a bit more.
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rcspaceflight on July 1, 2013
Definitely sounds like your CG is too far forward. I doubt the front wings on this plane do enough to bring the CG forward by any measurable amount.
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Robin Hilliard on July 14, 2013
Wow, also one of my favourite aircraft, and the hardest to find information on. I came across it on page 580 of Darrol Stinton's Design of the Aeroplane (ISBN 0632018771), apparently the author flew it from his comments in the caption.

One thing to note, according to the photo the fins on the prototype aircraft are actually not at the wingtips, but at about 75% of the span, just outside where the wing struts join. There are also two big leading edge fences, one in front of the fin and one in front of the wing strut attach point.

Thanks for sharing the photos, very interested to hear how it flies - the books say that tandem wings often hunt in pitch if the wing loadings are similar.

Cheers,
Robin
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Boxer 74 swappable scratch build