DIY PVC Adjustable Video/Photo Camera Stand

by rcjoseb | October 27, 2015 | (8) Posted in How To

Picture this.  You are an avid builder/tinkerer/modeler that wants to submit pictures to FliteTest or a video to YouTube documenting your latest and greatest build.  The problem is you don't have three arms, someone to hold that camera for you or your tripod just won't cooperate.  That perfect shot is just not possible.

Well, all you need to do is continue reading this article and then head on down to your favorite hardware store cause an easy to build, adjustable, overhead PVC video/photo camera mount is here!

Your shopping list:  

PVC:
Please note all PVC pieces are half inch schedule 40 pressure fit.  The camera mount is designed to be put together without glue for easy dismantling and adjusting.

  • (7) 45 degree PVC elbows.
  • (8) PVC T connectors.
  • (4) PVC Caps.
  • 72 inches of PVC pipe which leaves extra just in case it is needed.

HARDWARE:
Please note you can use any duameter of threaded rod that is available.  I used what I had.

  • (1) 4 inch bolt that can be threaded onto the tripod mount of your camera.
  • (2) nuts for the bolt.
  • (2) washers that can slide onto the bolt easily and are at least 1.2" in diameter.
  • (3) threaded rods at least 8 inches in length.
  • (12) nuts that will fit the threaded rods.
  • (6) washers that will fit the threaded rods and have a diameter slightly larger than the nuts.

MISC:

  • Fine sand, small gravel or small stones that can be poured into the PVC pipe to act as counter weight

TOOLS:

  • Marker or pen.
  • Ruler or measuring tape.
  • A saw or PVC pipe cutter (highly recommended).
  • Hammer or rubber mallet.
  • Drill and drill bits.

THE BUILD:

The mount is made up of three sections:

  • The base which keeps the mount upright and provides the first articulation point.
  • The lower arm which provides the second articulation point.
  • The upper arm which holds the camera and provides the 3rd and 4th articulation points.

BASE PART I:

This portion of the base is made up of the following pieces:

  • (2) 45 degree PVC elbows.
  • (2) 5 inch lengths of PVC pipe.
  • (1) 4 inch length of PVC pipe.

Cut the PVC pipe to the lengths needed and lay them down as shown with the other pieces of PVC.  Using a hammer or mallet to ensure a tight fit, assemble the pieces, ensuring that the entire assembly can lay down flat.

The finished piece should look like this.

BASE PART II:

This portion of the base is made up of the following pieces:

  • (4) PVC caps.
  • (5) T PVC connectors.
  • (4) 1.5 inch lengths of PVC pipe.
  • (4) 1 inch lengths of PVC pipe.
  • (1) 8 inch length of threaded rod.
  • (2) washers fitting the threaded rod.
  • (4) nuts fitting the threaded rod.

Assemble this portion using (3) T connectors, (2) 1.5 inch pieces of PVC pipe, (2) 1 inch pieces of PVC pipe and (2) PVC caps.  Please note the 1 inch pieces of PVC pipe are used to attache the caps.

The red arrow indicates where the first 8 inch length of threaded rod will go.  Drill a hole at the center of each of the side PVC T connectors large enough for the threaded rod to go through.  Insert the rod with one washer and 2 nuts on each side.

Fill the PVC pipe with as much gravel, sand or stones as possible but do not go farther than the indentation inside the pipe which acts like a stop for the connecting pieces that will be attached later.

Support the assembled piece so that it stays upright and insert (1) 1.5 inch piece of PVC pipe into each side T connector.  Use a hammer or mallet to ensure a tight fit.

Attach (2) T connectors as shown.  Use a hammer or mallet to ensure a tight fit.

Attach the previously assembeld piece from BASE PART I as shown.  Use a hammer or mallet to ensure a tight fit.

The base will now look like this.

Fill the rest of the base with as much gravel, sand or stones as possible but do not go farther than the indentation inside the pipe which acts like a stop for the connecting pieces that will be attached later.

Connect the remaining (2) PVC caps using (2) 1 inch lengths of PVC pipe.  Use a hammer or mallet to ensure a tight fight.

LOWER ARM:

This lower arm is made up of the following pieces:

  • (3) 8 inch lengths of PVC pipe.
  • (4) 45 degree PVC elbows.
  • (2) T PVC connectors.
  • (4) 1.5 inch lengths of PVC pipe.
  • (2) threaded rods with their washers and nuts (not shown).

Cut the PVC pipe to the lengths needed and lay them down as shown with the other pieces of PVC.  Using a hammer or mallet to ensure a tight fit, assemble the pieces, ensuring that the entire assembly can lay down flat.

The red arrow indicates where the 2nd and 3rd 8 inch lengths of threaded rod will go.  Drill a hole at the center of each of the 45 degree PVC elbows large enough for the threaded rod to go through.  Insert the rod with one washer and 2 nuts on each side.

The hole will look like this when drilled.

The completed lower arm will now look like this.

Connect the lower arm to the base.  Use a hammer or mallet to ensure a tight fit.

UPPER ARM:

This upper arm is made up of the following pieces:

  • (1) 7 inch length of PVC pipe.
  • (1) 45 degree PVC elbows.
  • (1) 1.5 inch length of PVC pipe.
  • (1) T PVC connectors.
  • (1) bolt with its two washers and nuts.

Cut the PVC pipe to the lengths needed and lay them down as shown with the other pieces of PVC.  Using a hammer or mallet to ensure a tight fit, assemble the pieces, ensuring that the entire assembly can lay down flat.

The completed upper arm will now look like this.

Attach the upper arm to the lower arm.  Use a hammer or mallet to ensure a tight fit.  Tighten down the nuts on each threaded rod so that pressure is supplied to the PVC sections.  This keeps the articulation points from moving when the camera is attached to the upper arm.

My camera mounts to the upper arm in this manner so that the LCD screen can swivel open to the left.  You may need to mount your camera differently.

Here is an example of one configuration, where the camera is held high above the work surface.

Here is an example of another configuration, where the camera is held low above the work surface.

This configuration allows the camera to point forward.

 

The four points of articulation make this camera stand very versatile while the common materials such as PVC make it cost effective and easy to build.  By adjusting the length of the lower and upper arms you can easily modify the dimensions to suit your build space and needs.  Now it's time to start taking those shots!

I hope you enjoyed this article.

 

COMMENTS

FlyingMonkey on November 5, 2015
For added weight on the base, you can buy, or make sand bags, that you could rest over the legs.
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rcjoseb on November 5, 2015
That will work!

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RCMasterx on November 9, 2015
Old jeans make great sand bags. Cut the legs off, sew or glue one end closed, add sand and seal the other end. If glue is used, it would've best not to just toss them around for fear of opening.
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rcjoseb on November 9, 2015
Great idea!
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HilldaFlyer on November 8, 2015
I'm always looking for an extra set of hands.
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rcjoseb on November 9, 2015
I just call my son to help me if I can pull him away from his xbox :-)
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magicmerlin on November 8, 2015
Great job, your photos are a great help in the assembly. Have you ever tried to create a plane balancing unit with PVC pipe?
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rcjoseb on November 9, 2015
Yes I have. I created a PVC balance machine designed by a guy named Ron. Here is the video made a long, long time ago.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcys2GjouK4
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DIY PVC Adjustable Video/Photo Camera Stand