My Y6 build. Vector & Tarot 2D gimbal

by midohioboarder | August 30, 2015 | (5) Posted in Projects

Y6!!  This is my first fixed pitch heli.  I wanted to be able to fly a gimbal so I opted for this over the toughtilt tri.  (although I wanted the performance of the tri... so the 250 quad is coming to cure my need for speed)

I thought I would share what I learned while I was building the Y6 w/ arm extenstions and the Vector flight controller.  

Frame

  • First, a drill press would have been very helpful.  Drilling by hand trying to keep the drill straight and vertical is challenging.  I found that if I marked the whole with a pen, then made a depression/dent in the center of the mark (used a center punch), the drill would not 'wander' away from the mark.  But, that didn't keep the drill straight up and down, so, I had a few times when the holes on the oposite side did not line up with the plates.  In those cases, it was necessary to drill from the other side as well.  Made the hole in the wood an odd shape and probably slight weakened the design... but, it works.
  • I used a piece of landing gear wire to hang all the pieces from the bolt holes so I could spray paint all sides of the pieces and let them hang dry.

ESCs

  • Extended arms = manditory extensions on all ESCs. This was one of many unplanned delays in the building process. I was hoping to find some 20 gauge wire. All I found was some 16 gauge from Lowes.  A little over-kill, but works.
  • Got all excited because I thought I had found a way to mount all the ESCs inbetween the anycopter hubs or under... (yeah.  Under doesn't work)  I didn't realize what I had done until I went to put the landing gear assembly on.  Another delay.  Undo three ESCs worth of soldering.  Shorten 9 motor extensions...Ugh. I ended up placing the 3 ESCs for the bottom motors under the arms.  I then realized I could shorten the ESC power lines for the bottom 3 by running them straight to the solder points on the PDB.  This redudced weight and keeps them from moving around so much, therefore making it so I could use less zip ties.  (in my mind it made sense.)  Eric is right, a good hot iron makes this work a lot easier.  I started with an iron that didn't hold much heat.  Got a better iron...  What a difference. 

Wiring

  • I removed all the power pins from the ESCs as suggested in the Vector manual to prevent unintentional spin-ups.
  • I used the 5V tab (tab B as noted in Vector manual) as Peter suggests you can do in the Vector setup vid by Flite Test.  I spliced together a JST and male side of just the power wires (red and black) from a servo extention then put the +/- pins in the throttle signal send plug. (it could have been any other than the aleron since those pins are already being used by the Vector.
  • The TX (TS353) is being powered directly from one of the 12V (tab A) tabs.  I put a "Y" adapter inbetween to power the LED nav banks.
  • Tarot 2D gimbal is powered by its own 500 mAh 3S.
  • Gimbal Tilt is running off AUX3. Which is the default channel on DX8 for knob/potientiometer.
Balancing & Maiden
 
If you are anything like me, I want the longest flight times possible. So, of course, I ordered some 4S 5000 mAh.  And, I also 'had to have' my GoPro on a gimbal and a dedicated FPV camera.  (More $$$ more weight)  After I got the Vector set up (to the best of my knowledge), I reconsidered having all my expensive gadgets on-board for the maiden.  Needless to say, tyring to ballance a 5000 mAh battery without the weight up front was nearly impossible.  So, I opted to put everything back on.  I don't always think logically when I am to anxious to see my project flying, 'cause I could have just put some old LiPos on the front to ballance things out. Oh well.  I'm happy to say that the Y6 flew great with the Vector using factory gain settings.
 
I had to move my GPS to be back on the tail boom to get it further away from the TX.  

Put navigation lights on it. 3528's.  Using 38 gauge 'magnet wire'.  The wire is almost thin as hair.  Super light weight.  Not the easiest to work with though.  I found that if I pre-tined the banks with small spots of solder, I could reheat the spots while holding the wire against it with the iron after I had already mounted the banks on the arms.  Seemed to work fairly well.  I used an exacto knife to scrap the thin shellac coating off the wire.  Scraped one side of the wire. Flipped it over. Scraped the other side.  (I know, wire is round and doesn't have sides.  But, treat it as if it does.)  I personally thought the banks would draw enough current to melt the wires... Nope.  I have made several 7-8 minute flights tonight without issue.  Man do they look great.  Very bright. Easily seen at 100'. Bright enough to be seen in daylight. I created a 'Y' connector of sorts out of a male and female JST set that I have running in-line between the Vector PSU 12v tab and my VX. 

Running lights at dusk

The table below shows the relationship between AR8000 channels and Vector harness

RXVector
THRO Thr
AILE Ail
ELEV Elv
RUDD Rud
GEAR Mod
AUX1 Aux1
AUX2 DORA (future)
AUX3 Tarot 2D tilt

Below, you see the JST 'Y' plug made from a male and female JST plug. You can see the magnet wire going in under the shrink wrap to connect to the 12V power of one of the A tabs from the PSU.

In conclusion, I found the Y6 build fairly straight forward and rewarding. You can save yourself some rework effort if you take the time to plan and layout where all your components will go. Then gather all materials needed before each phase of the build and spare yourself the running back and forth that I did from the hobby or big box store. Don't get down on yourself if your plan doesn't work out the way you thought it would. if you are anything like me, you'll crash it and get your chance to make improvements the next build!!

Finally, there is A LOT of information to absorbe in the Vector manual.  I highly recommend taking the time to learn how your transmitter and the Vector work to gether with whatever flying machine you will be putting in the air.  You'll have to fight off the urge to cut corners and just go flying.  But, remember that the more time you take to fully understand your equipment, the more enjoyable your first flying exprience will be.

 

Look for my next article where I will share my experiences with Eagle Tree's Vector and Eagle Eyes ground station.

COMMENTS

mshippe on September 9, 2015
Wow fantastic job, you are very detailed in your work.I am building my first multi rotor and chose to build Y6. How did overcome CG with such a large battery? The lights are a great add on.
Log In to reply
midohioboarder on September 9, 2015
With a TX (TS353), Sony 555 (fpv camera), Tarot 2D gimbal and GoPro 3+ ... it actually balances out the 4S 5000 mAh quite nicely.
Log In to reply
The-One-Who-Never-Crashes on September 10, 2015
Fantastic build! I love the way you hanged your booms for spray painting -- I'll definitely use that method in the future!
Log In to reply
midohioboarder on September 10, 2015
Thank you. Learned that trick from my dad.
Log In to reply
JasonL on September 12, 2015
Great build! It looks great. I just finished my Y6, using the Vector as flight controller. I am having some serious forward and left, and it's constantly yawing back and forth slightly. Did you have any issues like that?
Log In to reply
midohioboarder on September 12, 2015
Let me see if i understand, it is drifting forward and to the left and wagging back and forth? What flight mode are you in? 2D Hold? Did you balance the copter with trims on a calm day?
Tail wagging could be due to the gains on the yaw being too high. However, mine wags a little when I am descending from altitude unless I am giving it a little left or right rudder while descending... which seems to help.
Log In to reply
JasonL on September 12, 2015
I tried 2D and 2D Hold. I did all testing with no wind. I noticed that my tail boom was not perfectly straight with the rail system, so I am swapping out the 3.5 inch boom section with a fresh one with centered holes. I'm hoping that solves it.
Log In to reply
msh312b on September 14, 2015
I am having the same problem with my FT Y6 and Vector FC. I went through the manual and tried everything it said and can't get it to stop yawing and wanting to tip over. I am going to try the extensions to see if that helps.
Log In to reply
midohioboarder on September 14, 2015
I got a response back from ET. (very good people there.)

Here is what they said
James,

Any time you make any trim adjustments you must re-run the RX Wizard. In a correctly aligned frame, trim adjustments should not be needed as long as the RX Wizard has been completed correctly and the gyro have been zero'd. If your motors are not level, there isn't much assistance we can give as you will need to try different settings until you get the system performing satisfactorily.

The tail wag is likely related to the motors not being level with each other and the frame. With motors that are out of alignment, varying thrust (throttle) causes unpredictable, non-linear torque and yaw behavior.
Log In to reply
JasonL on September 17, 2015
I think I have solved my problems. First with the drift, I used the trim on my radio to stabilize it. The vector manual says you can flip the mod switch 5 times and it will set those trims into the flight controller, and then you recenter the radio trims. This worked perfectly.

As for my yaw wagging, I took a long ruler and measured the exact distances from each of the top motor shafts. My tail boom was still slightly off, so I adjusted it so that now all of my motors are equidistant. I also placed a long carpenter's level from motor-tip to motor-tip to ensure everything was level.

After doing all of these adjustments, my Y6 is pretty locked in. Now all I need to do is find a 3-axis gimbal that isn't too expensive.
Log In to reply
The-One-Who-Never-Crashes on September 18, 2015
Try this gimbal:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__81329__FeiYu_Tech_Mini_3D_3_Axis_Brushless_Gimbal_for_Multi_Rotor_and_Aircraft.html
Log In to reply
TurboNinjaStix on October 2, 2015
I also have this gimbal, but I bought mine from my local hobby shop. Worked perfectly the first time I powered it, but be careful, sometimes they fall out of adjustment after a few times so you may need download an update.
Log In to reply
midohioboarder on September 18, 2015
What camera are you going to fly? Glad you got your Y6 locked in.
Log In to reply
Pav on September 16, 2015
Nice build! Have you thought of installing smaller diameter props with steeper pitch on the lower props to increase efficiency?

Log In to reply
midohioboarder on September 16, 2015
Nope. Haven't heard about this. Where can I find information about it?
Log In to reply
Pav on September 17, 2015
http://www.ecalc.ch/calcinclude/help/xcoptercalchelp.htm#hints

There are many sources that you can find information about this topic. The generic idea around that is that the airflow beneath the top prop is moving downwards faster and the diameter of the flow reduces (has to do with bernoulli law - but i visualise it as stretching it - longer and thinner). The lower prop has to spin in this faster airflow or to have a steeper pitch or it will spin freely, unloaded (try one inch more on the lower or reduce the top ones). Since also the diameter of the airflow is smaller, the diameter of the lower prop has to be smaller or the outermost tips of the lower prop will hit still air whilst the innermost part of the prop will be in that fast downward moving airstream. Therefore the diameter of the lower prop has to be smaller.

Log In to reply
Pav on September 17, 2015
This is a scientific approach. Paul from ''Ask Drone U'' had mentioned on a podcast that in order to maximize the efficiency on a y6 or x8 you need to install bigger props on the bottom. I have not tested anything myself. If you do try something please let me know the results. Just out of curiosity, what flight times are you getting with the current setup??

Log In to reply
midohioboarder on September 18, 2015
I'm getting 10 minutes with non-aggressive flying leaving 14.8 V left in the 4S 5000 mAh packs.
Log In to reply
Pav on September 21, 2015
That sounds good! I currently fly a TBS discovery with dji2212 920kv motors 9x5 props and all up weight of 2kg with the same 5000mah 4s and I get between 10 to 14minutes of flight time but I get it down to 14.2 or even 14.0v ''under load''! when I land it goes back up to 14.8v. But be very carefull and dont fly far if you try this. I have crashed because it went down to 13.9 and it fell from the sky!!!!!
Log In to reply
midohioboarder on September 22, 2015
My all up weight with the lipo is 2.25 Kg.
Log In to reply
Pav on September 23, 2015
That's good, considering the extra two motors, escs and wiring
Log In to reply
Levi L Steed on September 17, 2015
I NEED HELP!!!!! Please!!! I am building a vtail quad and I am using the KK2.1 FC board and the R615 X, with a DEVO 7 E with the deviation firmware installed and I am not getting any response from the R615X from the DEVO 7 E. I have gone threw all the steps of setting up the FC and I believe all of the setting in my DEVO 7 E in order for it to work. When I did the throttle calibration the motors did calibrate and work but when I finished and did a test (with no props on) NOTHING happen. Please HELP!!! Levi

Log In to reply
midohioboarder on September 18, 2015
I can't help you. I have no experience with the products you are having trouble with. Wish I could.
Log In to reply
The-One-Who-Never-Crashes on September 18, 2015
I might be able to help. Can you tell me what the DEVO 7 is?
Log In to reply
The-One-Who-Never-Crashes on September 18, 2015
Check that you have made all the connections correctly. Also, check to see if your Tx is compatible with your Rx.
Log In to reply
TurboNinjaStix on October 2, 2015
Your deviation firmware may not be working right in the 7E. They usually recommend using the Devo 10 for deviation. I would say try using a different tx/rx combo, either a Walkera rx like a 701 (for about $25 on eBay), or a Spektrum tx like a DX5e (for about $40). I have an older Devo 7 that came with my Genius cp but Deviation didn't support it at the time. Or say neck with it all and get a Graupner 😉
Log In to reply
The-One-Who-Never-Crashes on September 18, 2015
Try this gimbal:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__81329__FeiYu_Tech_Mini_3D_3_Axis_Brushless_Gimbal_for_Multi_Rotor_and_Aircraft.html
Log In to reply
midohioboarder on September 18, 2015
I saw it. I was interested. but in the name of getting it up in the air faster... I settled for the one in-stock. Tarot 2d. Now Tarot has the T4 3D. Watching reviews. Looks pretty good. Just not sure about the stock programming for control.
Log In to reply
midohioboarder on September 18, 2015
Do you have it? How do you like it?
Log In to reply
The-One-Who-Never-Crashes on September 18, 2015
I like it more than the Tarot because the Tarot has the motor for the pitch control on the same side as the GoPro's HDMI port. This makes installing the A/V out cable impossible (unless you flip the camera).
Log In to reply
Planiac01 on October 3, 2015
Really cool. Awesome Article.
Log In to reply
bgfireguy92 on October 22, 2015
And out of curiosity what length did you make the booms
Log In to reply
midohioboarder on October 27, 2015
Sorry for the delay in response. They measure across the top of the booms from the edge of the PDB to the ends, 12 inches exactly or 30.48 cm.
Log In to reply

You need to log-in to comment on articles.


My Y6 build. Vector & Tarot 2D gimbal