Tarot FY680 Build - Electronics - eluminerRC

by eluminerRC | November 9, 2014 | (0) Posted in How To

This is second video in my Tarot FY680 Build series and it's all about power system and electronics. This is also my longest video ever packed with tons of information and tips.

This video covers rest of the build except propellers installation and it is most intimidating part of the build. You have to solder, route and organize wires, connect stuff... I hope this video will help you make multi-rotor builds an enjoyable and pleasant experience, rather that frustrating one.

Here is couple of eRC tips and tricks that will help you with electronics and power system builds in the future:

1. Always use Threadlocker when you have metal on metal contact, especially when mounting motors.
2. Set your soldering iron to about 370 °C. This is enough to work with thick 12 AWG wires, but it's not too much to damage sensitive power distribution boards.
3. Always use soldering paste. This helps creating good, long lasting solder joint.
4. Always tin wires, PCB boards and connectors before final soldering. This helps creating good, long lasting solder joint. Do this even if there's already a solder on the board. It's usually not the same type as yours so make sure you tin everything with your own solder.
5. If your Zip Ties are too short, use two to make them longer.
6. Add additional 26 AWG JST connections to the main power distribution board so that you have easy access to the main pack voltage for future accessories like LED's, FPV, Gimbal, Pivot Landing Gear etc.
7. Use heat-shrink tubing on connections that go into carbon fiber tubes to prevent accidental shorts.
8. Plug Male and Female connectors together before soldering whenever possible to prevent connector warping and plastic melting due to heat. This helps keeping contacts in place and increases heat dissipation.
9. Use multiple layers of double-sided tape when mounting main flight controller to increase vibration dampening.

You need:

DJI Naza V2 Full Set:
Foxtech 40A OPTO ESCs:
Foxtech S3508 700 KV Motors:
Futaba R7008SB Receiver:

30 cm Servo Extension Leads
12 AWG and 14 AWG Wires
Servo Wire
Threadlocker (medium strength)
Double-sided Tape
Zip Ties
Antenna Tubing
Heat-shrink Tubing
Pipe Clip
Male and Female JST Connectors
Male XT-60 Connector
3.5 mm Bullet Connectors
Tarot Power Distribution Board

Soldering Station
60/40 Solder
Soldering Paste
Third Hand
Crimping Tool
2.0 mm Hex Screwdriver
3.0 mm Phillips Screwdriver
Precision Knife

Additional Information:

Video: Canon 600D/T3i - 18-55 mm Lens
Editing: FinalCut Pro X
Music: GarageBand


canuck on November 9, 2014
Once again these are the very best videos. Instructional material so clear and concise with no spoken material which is not even missed. Keep up the great work.
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eluminerRC on November 10, 2014
Thanks man! I will! ;)
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danallen82 on November 10, 2014
I have to disagree. The length of cable between the ESC and motor is not an issue. The real issue is the length between the battery and ESC. If you have high current, you'll need to use heavy gauge wire to travel the length of the boom. It is better to have the ESCs next to the power distribution to avoid damage to the ESC over time. In my setup, the ESCs are always on the body of the craft.
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chodgson on November 12, 2014
Danallen82, you are wrong about the thrust; the majority of the thrust is created towards the tips of the prop (centered around 75% of the way from the hub to the tip). This is because the tips of the prop are moving faster and covering a greater area. And ESCs certainly do require cooling if you are running a high-power setup (why else do car/truck ESCs have fans on them?). That said, you are correct about the ESC cabling issues and on a larger multicopter frame the length of wire from the battery to the ESC can be close to what most ESC manufacturers specify as the maximum length of cable from the battery to the ESC, 12 inches.

Internally mounted ESCs certainly do look cleaner, I think in the end it comes down to everyone's individual requirements and preferences.
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danallen82 on November 10, 2014
Good video. I have a problem with everyone (Tarot mainly) for designing the ESC to be next to motor. Most of the thrust is created in the inner prop area, and placing that ESC is killing thrust. The ESC should not create enough heat to require air flow.
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eluminerRC on November 10, 2014
In my opinion the best way to mount the ESCs is under the motor like DJI has on their S800. They don't clutter the main frame, don't interfere with air flow and are still cooled down by it. Also, you have extremely short motor to ESC wires which is good.
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zlendish on January 31, 2015
I've been watching these videos and decided to build me my own. I'm am totally new to this and it's all magic to me. I have been flying a lot of different, yet simple rtf quads and feel more than comfortable with them. I want to go over to video/photography and that is the main reason that im going to build one.
I was thinking of just making one exact copy of yours. just follow the guides step by step and hope for the best.
Now, i started looking for the same frame but saw that there is a FY690 on sale, cheaper than the fy680, Will there be any differences? I read in another forum that the main change was something with the motor holder(?) How does that affect this build etc?
Also, i started looking for all the parts in the description just to make sure everything is available and i cant seem to find the Tarot Power Distribution Board, Is this thing included in some other pack you got?

Lastly, i saw all the upgrades that you have added. I want all that as well but will it not be to much weight with all these stuff +Gimbal & Camera (lets say i start off with a gopro)

A lot of questions,sorry :)
Hell of a good video though, love it!
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eluminerRC on January 31, 2015

FY690 is basically FY680 with slightly longer motor mounts. Build is basically the same. This is even better since you will have slightly more stable craft due to bigger diameter.

Power Distribution Board is from eBay.

This is designed for GoPro and a gimbal or Sony NEX 5 and a gimbal. In first case you can go with 12.000 mAh battery (about 13 min of flight time). In second case you can use 8.000 mAh batteriy (around 7 min flight time).
I wouldn't recommend all up weight greater than 4.000 g for save flying though.

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zlendish on January 31, 2015
Very good, thanks for your reply!

Are you using a camera and gimbal on yours now, together with the new landing gear and fpv system?

I will probably come back and ask you many more questions,so thanks in advance, lol :)
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zlendish on February 3, 2015
How about the fy680 pro? It's even newer and same price!
Integrated pcb must be as good yes? or is there benefits by using external power distributor? still cant find the one you got
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eluminerRC on February 5, 2015
I still don't have the gimbal. FY680 seems even better. Not really, I preffer integrated ones. I can't find it either now. :-P
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Tarot FY680 Build - Electronics - eluminerRC