Basic Quadcopter Tutorial - Talon V2, KK2 Board & Plush ESCs

by RC-Creator | August 4, 2012 | (11) Posted in Projects

 Introduction

In this article I am going to demonstrate what you need in order to build your own Quadcopter. This project is going to be split into 6 Chapters which cover the build step by step so that you can follow this guide if you like. I want to point out that I am by far no professional and that I do not have the best soldering skills, but because of the fact that I love the hobby and I love creating videos, I hope you enjoy this project. Thanks and if you liked it, feel free to rate this article, RC-Creator.

 

Chapter 1 - Parts & Setup

In this chapter I am going to talk about what parts I used and what the setup is going to be like. This covers motors/ESCs and props as well:

Here is a list of the parts I used: 

 

Turnigy Talon Quadcopter (V2.0) Carbon Fiber

TURNIGYBESC Programming Card                       

10CM Male to Male Servo Lead (JR) 26AWG (10p          

Slow Fly Electric Prop 8045 SF (4 pc - Green                

Slow Fly Electric Prop 8045R SF (4 pc)             

Slow Fly Electric Prop 8045R (4 pc - Green,                  

Slow Fly Electric Prop 8045SF (4 pc)      

NTM2826-1200       NTMProp Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv / 250w            

NTM Prop Drive 28 Series Accessory Pack                               

PolyMax 3.5mm Gold Connectors 10 PAIRS (20PC                           

TURNIGY Plush 25amp Speed Controller           

 

Hobbyking KK2.0 Multi-rotor LCD Flight Contr

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chapter 2 - Frame Construction

Building the frame for my Quadcopter using the Turnigy Talon V2 Frame from HobbyKing is the topic of this chapter.

 

 


Chapter 3 - Power System

I am going to display step by step how to solder your ESCs to your motors, how to install the motors on your quad as well as installing the ESCs/ wiring your ESCs to the powerline.

I am sorry for the length of this Chapter. That is why I created the menu which is supposed to help you skip to the parts of your interest. 

 





CHAPTER 4 - KK2 Board, ESC Calibration, Throttle Range & Props

 In this chapter I am installing the KK2 Board on my quadcopter, calibrate the ESCs so they will not turn off the power to my motors due to a low voltage, I am going to calibrate the throttle range as well as balance and install the props on the motors.

 

 

 

CHAPTER 5 - Preflight Checklist & Maiden Flight

CHAPTER 6 - Adjustments & Advanced Settings

 This video will be posted soon!

 




COMMENTS

Learjets on August 21, 2012
What battery are you using?
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RC-Creator on August 22, 2012
I tested it on 3s, gonna test it on 4s as well. Probably gonna get a better performance on 4s. Thanks for watching.
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FLYINGBISCUITS on November 9, 2012
Ok so I am an idiot. What voltage are you using with this battery set up you are using? Message me if you like. I don't want to be a nuisence but I may need a coach before my project is over. Any help would be amazingly useful!
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cwozny on August 27, 2012
I'm looking at the list of parts on HobbyKing for this frame and I don't see anything about different size arm lengths. What are the arm lengths you received?
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RC-Creator on August 28, 2012
The kit comes with the short arms. I have the short arms installed as well, but maybe I am going to switch to the longer arms if I have a stability issue. Hope that helped you out.
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Learjets on August 21, 2012
Saw the 3 and 4 cell batteries, Nice informitive video
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86manu86 on January 30, 2013
Hi!! This post helped me a lot..it is just what I was looking for!! I've made a bill of parts and tools for a 1st-time user including charger, soldering equipment etc...Do you mind check my list and tell me if I forgot something? My purpose is to attach a gopro hero 3 and make some footage and fpv flights through the wifi iphone app...In the future I might wanna be able to mount a NEX-5 so will the motors be enough? As for the camera mount I don't think I need the camera to tilt so if you have a better way to attach the gopro whithout the mount i listed, please tell me..

Talon frame v2
KK2 flight controller
4 X turnigy plush 25 amp
4 x NTM 2826 1200kv motors
AM1001A gold connectors
8045R prop black
8045N black
8045R green
8045N green
ZIPPY 2200 4S 40C
TR_PC turnigy BESC Programing card
10 cm MALE-MALE SERVO LEAD
turnigy 9XM2 transmitter&receiver
Rhino 2620 mAh 3S 11.1 (RT-TX)
450-0024 Prop Balancer
Clip Holder for soldering
1mm solder wire
IMAX B6 AC battery charger
HobbyKing X550 camera tilt mount
soldering station

Feel free to add/remove stuff...
Thanks again for the article!!

PS I'm sorry for my english...
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Mr.Buttons on March 20, 2013
Can I use the TURNIGY Plush 25amp Speed ​​Controller instead Turnigy TY-P1 25Amp HEXFET Brushless Speed Controller?
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Captain Hack on March 13, 2014
I was wondering if i can use 105 degree Celsius awg 16 or 12 wiring instead of the 200 C wiring?

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seadyrom on December 7, 2013
Is this build still the best bang for your buck so to speak? I'm going to be attempting my first quadcopter build soon and am hoping I can build something like this. Thanks for any help.
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drago on June 1, 2014
Sir
Pls help I live in India and the KK 2.0 LCD flight controler is now available for delivery here so can use KK 2.1 LCD flight controler instead and I am also confused about transmitter and receiver I am
new so don't know which will work and also running low on budget I can't affort this drone for more than 250$ so pls help and is there some better drone or newer version with same price or little more
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zaaz on December 10, 2014
how to get the remote of the Quadcopter ? PLEASE REPLY TO MY QUESTION

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John F Hendry on October 21, 2014
I removed this comment to edit it... be nice to edit without removing post. As I was saying... I have this frame too and what I like about it although it's not a popular way to mount motors is the ability to use the aluminum motor mounts as designed and mount the motors from below where the aluminum acts as a heat sink and lowers the prop COP closer to the CG to improve the handling with battery below as well as give a smother flight according to some reports. Saves the weight of using the aluminum prop adapters too. Not the lightest due to aluminum used but an excellent quad frame with many ways of using it. Was looking hoping to find these motor mounted that way but thanks for sharing.
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John F Hendry on October 21, 2014
Err.. forgot to add this in the edit. In part two you show using the set screw hole that keeps the inner part of the motor arm from rotating for mounting the nylon FCB mount. I know that's how Turnigy shows doing it but original build version and design is using the offset 45 degree holes with a nylon nut and this works really well. (better the motor mount rotates rather than the arm so you don't have to take everything apart and loosen everything in the middle just to get to one arm to tighten that rotated, AND the set screw lets you set clamps a little looser to allow them to push in rather than get crushed) In X mode doing this allows you to also reduce drag some and weathervane better by flying with a square corner facing forward rather than a square flat face which is higher and has more displacement drag area when using a power distribution board below the FCB and the newer KK2.1HC boards with their thicker case. To do this you just set a 45+ or - degree controller board offset in KK2.1 using V1.14S1Pro and above firmware by Stevieis now (10-21-14) @ v1.18S1Pro with some nice improvements.

And also with KK2 boards important to know there are two power buses, M1 powers receiver and the KK2, and M2 - M8 power servos/ESC and anyone using the KK.2 boards need to read up on this duel bus issue as there's quite a bit to learn associated with it and using servos or ESC UBEC/SBECs. If ESC are switching SBECs you can only use ONE per BUS and must cut (or lift tab and remove) red wire on unused SBECs and even with UBECs best to cut unused BECs red wire based on what I have read and not run ESC 5v BECs power wires in parallel as they run hotter and may induce noise into the KK2.1 flight controller and receiver causing problems. But leave ground wires on all ESCs as is. On larger quads like this best to use a separate UBEC/SBEC IMO so you don't have one ESC with UBEC running hotter than the rest especially on longer running setups past 7 min, and set ESCs to NiMh battery setting instead of LIPO to make sure ESCs do not cutoff power due to low voltage cutoff during a high power maneuver. USE YOUR TIMER and know your amp draw and stay well under mAh limit. You LIPOs will last longer too. ESC's until recently were not designed for multi copters (some) so be aware of that.
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Grawl on May 16, 2015
Hi,

I was wondering if you could tell me if the DX5e controller would work with this quad, and what receiver I should use with that one? I really enjoyed your videos, but am fairly new to quad building and saw this set of videos and am very inspired to build one!
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Basic Quadcopter Tutorial - Talon V2, KK2 Board & ...