Tricopers for RC newbies: what do I need to charge my batteries?

by enivid | July 13, 2012 | (9) Posted in Tips


By combining my readings of rcgroups.com and my personal experience, I try to outline what you need to know about battery charging in order to power your tricopter.

A lot of the discussions around tricopters are focused on the tricopter itself: how to make the best yaw mechanism, how to calibrate your kk board, what type of ESC should you use etc...  When it comes to batteries, Chad Kapper wrote a great article about choosing a LiPo battery and charging best practices.  I’m going to go more novice on this article and try to give an overview of what equipment is needed for charging.

One thing that surprised me is that most of the chargers in the market (if not all) do not actually come with the power circuitry built-in.  In my opinion that’s seems like a significant drawback to the hobby but I digress.  This means that if you need to charge fast (less than 20 mins) you’ll need to buy a power supply that can deliver the necessary amperage (for example my charger and my batteries can charge at a maximum 10A).  

In order to deliver that power, I purchased a power supply rated at 10A.  Now the consensus in the hobby is that it’s better to charge all batteries slow (at 1 AMP) so if you want to save money and you’re handy soldering iron (you’ll have to be if you’re building a tricopter), then you can commandeer one of those laptop power supplies (they can generally output 3.5A to 5A at 12V), they’re cheap and they’ll do the trick.  Some folks modified their ATX power supplies found in an old computer to provide the output that they need.

Warning: Modifying these types of high power electronics comes with risks.  Some of these power supplies contain capacitors that can discharge and cause real harm to someone that is new to high power electronics.







Connected to the power supply is your charger: you can find on cheap online. Make sure you buy one that can draw the necessary amps for fast charging and that also has a built-in balancer.  By the way,
balancing is also an important step in the charging process that you should know about. I can configure my charger to balance the LiPo cells automatically as it charges my batteries or balance after they’ve been charged.  Make sure your charger comes with a balancing port (insert photo) and an adapter to accommodate different battery types (mine supports 1 cell to 6 cells).


Connected to the charger is the battery: one connection is the balancing port (as stated above) and the other connection is the power connection.  Now if you look at this flitetest article on soldering connectors, you’ll see that there doesn’t seem to be a real standard for the power connectors in the RC hobby industry.  There are MANY connectors, some are more prevalent than others.  I suggest that you standardise to one connector and stick with it.  The Joshes really like the XT60 as it’s quite robust. If it’s not back ordered at Hobby King go with that.  Standardising to one power connector also means that you’ll probably have to change your input connector for your charger.

Tip: When changing and soldering new connectors on your battery, follow the instructions on the flitetest video.  One thing I would add is only snip off and solder one lead at time this way you always leave a connector protecting one of the leads and reduce the chances of a short circuit.  Covering your battery leads temporarily during this process with electrical tape is also a good idea.


Finally, during charging, your battery should be placed in a LiPo bag.  Makes sure that all your connections from the charger to the battery are long enough to center the battery in the bag while charging.  The reason for a LiPo bag is simple: safety.  You’ll crash your tricopter and during this crash your battery may strike something hard and get some invisible internal damage.  While charging, a damaged LiPo battery can fail catastrophically, so better be safe than sorry and place it in a fireproof LiPo bag.


Another thing you need to think about is that the electronics involved here require a lot of precision in order to charge all of your cells to the right voltage. I realised very quickly that my crappy electronic voltmeter wasn’t actually calibrated correctly to measure voltage on both my power supply and batteries. So from the start I’ve trusted that these things come well calibrated out of the factory.


About me: After watching David Windestål and “the Joshes” on flitetest fly a tricopter, I was sold and I decided to jump into the hobby.  I have never flown an RC plane before and never owned any RC equipment, so these are my learnings from getting into the hobby from scratch.  

Please don't forget to rate this article.

COMMENTS

Norway_Ulrik on July 14, 2012
5 Stars, But My charger (Imax B6ac (not the HK version)) has a Power suply built in, it can be hot but works fine i have used it for over 2 years and i charged with it for over 8 hours at the time
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enivid on July 14, 2012
I wasn't able to find things that could charge at 3C/10AMPs with built-in power circuitry.
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Norway_Ulrik on July 22, 2012
my charger can only chardge at 5Amps

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panther3001 on January 31, 2013
The Hyperion EOS 0720i NET3-AD (ac/dc) charger can. See here: http://media.hyperion.hk/dn/eos/. On AC power it can charge at a maximum of 20A *or* 90W, whichever is limiting. (Ex what "whichever is limiting" means: I want to charge a 5S battery. When nearing completion, the 5S battery will have a voltage of 4.2 x 5 = 21.0V. Watts are Volts x Amps, so the 90W limit means I cannot charge over 90W/21.0V = 4.3A. Therefore, for a 5S battery, nearing full charge, this "20A" charger can't charge over 4.3A. However, if I had only a 2S battery (full voltage = 4.2 x 2 = 8.4V), then I could charge at a max current of 90/8.4 = 10.7A. The 20A charger limit really only applies to 1S batteries. A 1S battery nearing charge completion has a voltage of 4.2V. 90W/4.2V = 21.4A, but since the charger is limited to 20A, then in this case it will only charge at 20A even though the 90W limit would otherwise allow 21.4A.
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colorex on July 13, 2012
Great article, best layout I've seen so far! Great content too! Thank you for posting this! 5 Stars!
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enivid on July 14, 2012
Thanks!
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panther3001 on January 31, 2013
Hello enivid, I haven't had the chance to read the whole article, but one little correction I happened to see if you don't mind. You said, "Now the consensus in the hobby is that it’s better to charge all batteries slow (at 1 AMP)." This isn't quite right. What you meant to say is "1C" not "1 Amp." Remember a C-rating is a capacity multiplier (C stands for "Capacity"). So, on any 2200 mAh battery, for instance, the capacity is 2200 mAh (mili-amp-hours, or mili-amps x 1 hr.), or otherwise known as 2.2 Ah (amp-hours, or amps x 1 hr.), so a 1C charge for this particular battery is 2.2A. A 2C charge is 2 x 2.2 = 4.4A. A 3C charge is 3 x 2.2 = 6.6A, etc. A 1C charge for an 800mAh battery (0.8Ah) is 0.8A. A 10C discharge is 8A, etc..... Remember, C-rating = a capacity multiplier intended to give you the current limitations of a battery. It is useful since it allows comparisons of battery qualities of different capacities, since two ways exist to increase a current limit: 1) increase the C-rating, 2) increase the battery's capacity. Either will increase its current limit. The advantage of having a C-rating is that it quickly gives you a cell quality comparison. A 20C battery is made of better cell/chemical components than a 10C battery, etc.

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Tricopers for RC newbies: what do I need to charge...