FT Mini Guinea BUILD

by FliteTest | December 5, 2014 | (31) Posted in How To

 FTScratchBuild




If you are familiar with our friend, Peter Sripol, you have definitely seen this design before, but this is just a bit smaller. He shrunk down his Cargo Plane design and we now have the FT Mini Guinea! His first Flite Test plane ever! YAY!

The Speed Build Kit will not only save you a ton of time, but they help support us so we can continue to do what we do.

If you don't want to pick up a kit, you can download the build plans and cut it out yourself!

FREE BUILD PLANS

FT Mini Guinea [FULL]

FT Mini Guinea [TILED]

Before you start your build, you will need to assemble two of the Mini Power Pods. 

In the kit you will already the materials all ready to go. Make sure you mount the firewall to the side the "A" is pointing towards.

Below you will find a video showing you exactly how to make the Mini Power Pod.

[video='https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=axOnU5GKSJI#t=322']

Also, because this is a twin engine, you will need a Y-Harness. These are becoming easier and easier to find online but if you want to make one, you can check out the video below.

This video will also show you how to mix differential thrust into your transmitter. 

[video='https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKTtvHWW-JU#t=25']

Lastly, it's always convenient to center up your servos before the build. That way you can drop them right in with no worry.  

Josh recommends placing the linkage stoppers roughly 1/4 inch (~0.6 cm) 

Once you have two power pods, your Y-harness, and the servos centered, you're ready to begin. 

Here are the cutouts for the wing. 

Join the two halves with hot glue and tape. 

Cut a 45° double bevel on the leading edge.

The center spar is a double thick paint stick and the outer spars are foam. 

Reinforce the grooves with hot glue and fold the wing over. 

Cut a 45° bevel on both the ailerons. 

These are your power pod nacelles. 

These are put together with a B-fold. If you are unfamiliar with these kinds of folds, here is a simple reference.

A-fold = sides Above bottom

B-fold = side Beside bottom

Use a scrap piece of foam (or a carpenters square if you have one) to make sure everything is 90°. 

Usually we save the power system setup for the end but because the majority of it lives inside the wing, we'll get it out of the way now. 

There are 5 punchouts on the wing for routing servo wires. Two that look like little socks (where you mount the servos), two access pannels, and a center hole. 

Glue in your servos, control horns, and attach the push rods. When you cut off the overhang DON'T THROW IT AWAY! You'll need it for the remainder of the build. 

Feed the servos wires through the wing and out the center hole. 

Next, start to rout the Y-harness through the center. 

Fit the power pods into the nacelles and connect them to the Y-harness. 

On to the fuselage!

This is essentially a box. Use B-folds to create the sides, and double check for 90°. 

Glue on the bottom which will contain the hatch. Don't cut it open just yet to give the piece more rigidity while you work with it. 

Next fold together the battery platform. 

This piece will also help line up the nose. 

Speaking of the nose, it is designed to take the majority of impact if you do end up hitting something. 

If this is the case more often than you'd like to admit, you can pick up Nose Replacement Pack in our store. 

One of our favorite properties of this foam is flexability. If you remove the paper from one side, you can mold beautiful curves.

Carefully peel the paper off the inside of both the "bowtie" piece and the peaks of the nose assembly. 

After you fold and glue it together, slowly begin the flex and work the nose until it has a nice curve. 

The same with the "bowtie". 

Then, glue the two together. 

Lastly, apply the windshield and cut off the overhang. 

There is a horseshoe shapped doubler that helps line up the nose. Glue this just above the battery platform with half sticking out. 

There are two reference dashes on the bottom of the fuselage. This is where you should mount the landing gear. 

Depending on the size of your wheels, you an just make a small groove right on these reference marks, or for smaller wheels, make a little foam standoff on the same spot like you see above. 

The kit comes with foam wheels but they do wear out pretty quickly. If you want a more permanent solution, we have much better wheels available in our Store

The nose wheel is castering, meaning that it freely spins allowing you to taxi very easily. 

You should have two leftover ends of that paint stick we used for the spar. Glue them on the inside of the battery platform over both reference holes.

Drill out the wood through those reference holes allowing the nose wheel wire to fit through. Apply a small drop of hot glue surrounding the wire on the inside. 

Slowly rotate the wheel while the glue rotates so that it holds but still lets it spin. 

Next, cut a 45° bevel on the tail surfaces...

...and glue them into place. 

Mount the elevator and rudder servos along with the control horns and push wire. 

The small holes on the side of the fuselage (and back of the nose piece) are for the bbq skewers. Push them through and cut off the overhang. 

Now, if you like, you can open up the bay door and install the servo. This is an open-once setup, but feel free to experiment with servos so you can close and open at will. Be creative and let us know what you come up with. This is called the guinea pig for a reason!

Next, make all your connections to your receiver and glue it into place. 

This is your throw gage.

H = high throws for aerobatics and aggressive flying

L = low throws for docile slow flying (recommended for beginners)

After you have tested your connections and everything is working correctly, go ahead and put on your props. 

Now you can also apply the battery velcro. 

Your CG (Center of Gravity) is going to be roughly on the open end of the access panel. If you haven't already you can secure them with a small piece of tape. 

When you check your CG Josh recommends balancing just a touch nose down. As he always likes to say, "A nose heavy plane may fly poorly, but a tail heavy plane flies only once."

A big CONGRATULATIONS to our friend Peter for this amazing benchmark in design!

Please experiment with this plane and show us your work by making an article here, posting to Facebook, or making a thread in the forums. We'd love to see what you come up with!

 

FREE BUILD PLANS

FT Mini Guinea [FULL]

FT Mini Guinea [TILED]

 

RECOMMENDED ELECTRONICS

MOTOR (Option 1) -  EMAX MT1806 Brushless Motor

MOTOR (Option 2) - RTF Mini Motor X2204 v2 2300KV

2 Servos (Option 1) - Towerpro SG50 5g Micro Servo

2 Servos (Option 2) - HXT500 6.2g / 0.6kg / .08sec Micro Servo

ESC (Option 1) - Dynam - Dectrum 12Amp ESC w/ 3A BEC

ESC (Option 2) - Suppo 10A Brushless ESC

Battery (Option 1) - Turnigy nano-tech 460mah 2S 25~40C Lipo Pack

Battery (Option 2) - Turnigy nano-tech 460mah 3S 25~40C Lipo Pack

Battery (Option 3) - Turnigy 800mAh 2S 20C Long Lipo Pack

Prop (Option 1) - Direct Drive HQ Prop - 5x3 Black

Prop (Option 2) - Direct Drive HQ Prop - 6x4.5 - Black

 

TRANSMITTER DIFFERENTIAL MIXES

Spektrum DX-8 (coming soon)

Spektrum DX-9


COMMENTS

Krivak957 on December 5, 2014
The recommended electronics list is a little confusing with respect to the number of each item needed. For these twins, I think you need as follows:

2 - motors
4 - servos
2 - ESCs
1 - battery
2 - props

I know it's obvious to most of us. But for new builders it needs to be more clear.
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Doug Wittenberg on December 5, 2014
I have built a number of single motor planes so I had a pretty good idea of the number items needed ,but I still feel better with you giving us the correct information. Thank You,
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prof.Doughnut on February 24, 2015
It is kinda obvious but thanks anyway
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Alexander Wissmann on March 4, 2016
You actually need 5 servos if you want the cargo door.
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N.carlsonsr@gmail.com on May 11, 2017
5 servos if you want to open the bay door
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N.carlsonsr@gmail.com on May 11, 2017
5 servos if you want to open the bay door
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N.carlsonsr@gmail.com on May 11, 2017
5 servos if you want to open the bay door
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edenmannh on January 13, 2019
parts list with sourcing links on http://www.eden-mann.co.nz/portfolio/rcplane.html
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Defog on December 6, 2014
During the video, you talk about blade disposal, and warning people that blades are in the trash.

I use this method, and it really helps. I take box board, from a cereal box, cracker box, some kind of cardboard like that. Cut a piece that will be larger than the blade(s) you will dispose of. Put the blade on the cardboard, tape it flat. You can tape many blades to it. then when you need to, throw that in the trash. A lot less likely to hurt someone. You could use scrap foam board, but I would err on the side of caution and use box board instead.

I believe I read this next one on the Flite Test Forum, and I'm repeating it because I use it:
Also, I noticed Peter rubbing some hot glue off of the work table. I purchased some silicone mats, normally used in the kitchen under hot pans, to work over,. The Hot Glue comes right off of those easily. If you look online, you can find them for not a lot of money.

~Brian, Dreaming of someplace a lot warmer than Minnesota to Fly Planes and Ride my motorcycle.
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RAGII on December 9, 2014
Years ago I read another way to dispose of the blades. Take an old can with a lid on it. You cut a small slot in the lid that will accept the blades. When the blade is dull simply drop it in the slot. When the can is full, use duct tape or shipping tape to secure the lid to the can and dispose of it. I used a can from formula when my daughter was born and it has lasted me years.
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charleyza on December 6, 2014
Been looking forward to this one, keen to scratch build it when Im done with my stick.
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PropSpinner on December 7, 2014
What a treat! Three Flite Test videos in one week and a podcast also!
Excellent team build! The two of you together work at a fast pace and keep my interest. Mt. Dew probably helped :-).
I'm looking forward to some cargo plane challenges.
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thatjoshguy on December 7, 2014
Anyone else see this and start humming the theme to Tail Spin?
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Kurt0326 on December 8, 2014
Yes...
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Lorenzo on December 27, 2014
Yep, me too:
http://forum.flitetest.com/showthread.php?14637-TaleSpin-Inspired-Mini-Guinea
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prof.Doughnut on February 24, 2015
Lol

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Kurt0326 on December 8, 2014
Peter... PLEASE show us how to build you VTOL from Horizon Indoor Electric Festival 2014, PLEASE!
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Xephius on December 10, 2014
Thanks guys for another great episode! I really like the embedded link work you guys are doing as a TOC, great idea! Could you please share the motor/ESC specs for the VTOL version? :) I can wait for the build videos and plans, but I want to build a standard version now and reuse the motors and esc on the VTOL configuration. Is that possible? :)
-X
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Hanzo on December 12, 2014
No counter-rotating props? It's so hard to see in the vid. Does that not give it a lot of something (I think maybe torque-roll)?
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menachg on December 17, 2014
it doesn't show this article in the the free build plans section try to fix that so it will be more reachable
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pintokitkat on December 19, 2014
Spektrum 8 setup still 'coming soon'! Come on - I want to put this bird into a flat spin.
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wonsnot on December 26, 2014
Which battery option should I use for the 2204 motor?
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Dawagner on December 30, 2014
Hey FT, new to the Twin style planes. I didn't see it specifically mentioned or shown in the video but do you disconnect one of the power cables from one of the ESC's (BEC) when going with a differential thrust setup?
Would it be like connecting a battery (Parallel) and simply increasing the amps available to draw or will it increase the voltage (in series) thru the voltage rail in the RX?
Thanks!
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Goose on December 31, 2014
Do both motors spin the same way?? and if they do are they CW or CCW?
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Planeguy18 on December 31, 2014
does anyone know a motor from hobbyking for this
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prof.Doughnut on February 21, 2015
We need a mini foldable wing
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prof.Doughnut on February 24, 2015
Lol

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rpoquette on February 22, 2015
I got my Mini Guinea up in the air, and I'm loving it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKOZ94lGNZ0
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Beardotapeshoes on February 25, 2015
The mini guinea wing is the perfect size and has inspired me to build the Sea Duck from Tale spin having to make my own fuselage and twin tail booms.. Just a little time cutting and measuring you can make anything with DTF
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sandman on February 25, 2015
Larry Ross passed away 2013.
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SpaceWalker1992 on March 8, 2015
Plans for the nose by itself? I am getting tired of printing 36 pages every time I crash.
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james.ketchem on March 8, 2015
on your printer you can tell it what pages to print and copy it once you get it,so you will have it
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james.ketchem on March 8, 2015
PETER I WANT TO PUT 4 1704 MOTOR ON THE MIN ,WHAT WILL I HAVE TO DO ,THE DIRECION OF THE MOTOR, ECT. jjwwkk@yahoo.com. allso if you know where to mount on the wing,i put an out-side skin to it and i know i added weight to it ,that why i want to go with 4 motor,it was that or go up to a 2204 2300kv motor
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Alex_10200 on March 9, 2015
SO I want to print the build plan off does anyone know what size it should be printed in?
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violentj9805 on March 13, 2015
can i use 10 gram servos, i have a bunch of hobbyking hkscm9-6 already. would they fit? can it be modified to fit them?
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Jondi1 on March 16, 2015
Cannot open your spectrum Tx mix file
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Spacemonkeykj on March 26, 2015
YAY PETER!!!! Great cargo plane addition to the Flite Test squadron. The only thing I am wondering is, when are the power packs going to be back in stock? They really are a great all-in-one electronics solution.
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flysky on May 1, 2015
100% rates. 0%expo. its awsume.
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eddugo on August 19, 2015
Are you using the Dectrum esc's for any particular reason. I am having a problem getting the motors to start together - sometimes one will not start at all - destrums better for that? Thank you
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charleyza on October 20, 2015
Has anybody tried to fly this mini with a larger 2200 3 cell?
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dylan.parris on October 25, 2015
Ive finished building my mini guinea with the corresponding power pack. I connected all of the servos correctly and connected the second motor to the AUX1 channel on my reliever(spektrum a610). I connect the battery and the esc connected to AUX1 beeps in a pattern like its going through its progammable menu (.-..-...-....-) continuously. I watched the mixing video and before i pull the positive lead from the esc connector i just want to make sure its the right thing to do or if theres something else im missing
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benedictudeh on November 19, 2015
hi,i'm Ben. I love your works,I really want to build stuffs like this using this foam board but unfortunately I can't get them here in Nigeria. Is there any way I can buy and have it shipped down here? pls I need help. I'm sick of using ordinary foam.
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jordy123 on December 26, 2015
Do you guys have an intention to make a mini bushwhacker?
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awesome1491 on January 12, 2016
how many channels does this use and is this good for someone who's never flown
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rashed222 on March 13, 2016
is it ccw or cw prop

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15ashworthh on March 26, 2016
Just printed off the build plans now in black and white will they still be legible ?
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sgabrutt on October 21, 2017
I can understand I would need to purchase the "twin A" power pack... is the second option the "F pack" ?
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Wheelz on February 10, 2018
Both the tiles and full plans PDF link is not working I tried on my laptop as well and nothing but 503 error come up.
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edenmannh on January 13, 2019
If anyone is looking for converted DXF plans for use with CNC laser cutters, please feel free to check out the article about this brilliant plane over on http://www.eden-mann.co.nz/portfolio/rcplane.html
Also included is a list of parts and the locations that I sourced them from as well as the successful (yet terrifyingly fast) maiden flight.
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FT Mini Guinea BUILD