First Article on Flite Test, I’m Building a Scratch Built H Quad Similar to Josh B’s & Dave's designs (Could not of done it with out them paving the way, much thanks) and came up with a way to neatly manage the power cables and stacks with the KK2 Control Board for an H Quad config.
I’m still getting in my initial flights (hence the blue taped Rx & Battery) I plan on finishing it up soon (monokote the frame & have an official battery bracket on the bottom). (yes that’s an old 72 mhz Futaba 8UAPs but its working great on the bird)
Here you can see my first attempt “medusa” style harness (with the yellow XT60 connector on it), compared to the Narrow X board mount style. The Medusa harness was a big pain to try to package, I had a Quad power board on order from Hobby King but the postal service messed up the order. The pre made board looks like it would work on a conventional X Quad but with the order being a no show for a while I looked for another way with the materials I had on hand that would package well in the frame.
The key to making it work for me was the ability to have the lowest wire count and twist the connection before soldering it to keep it from being a juggling act, even with helping hands available. The main 4 reds and 4 black outputs actually come from 2 long wires for each polarity. I stripped around 1” in the middle of the insulation being careful not to cut into the wires, the 2 heaver wires on the right go to the battery side but get twisted into the main joint.
Here is the Positive side (red) ready to go on some tile, notice the twist in the center. I added some Rosin to the joints just before Soldering.
I added a smaller gauge wire to each side after the main twist as a power take off to go to the battery alarm / buzzer. I plan on hooking these wires up to a JST 2 wire connector, so the buzzer wires can be routed with more options. I have the conventional 3.5 mm female bullet connectors on the ESC side, and 3.5 mm male bullet connector on the battery side.
Here are all the major parts getting ready to be zip tied (all exposed areas where covered in heat shrink tubing). The yellow plate is 1/32” G-10 fiberglass (non conductive) sheet from McMaster I had around my Shop. Outer profile measures 2.25” x 2.25” with the 1.75” x 1.75” 1/8” dia hole pattern to match up to the KK2 Board. The 6 holes in the center are for the zip ties. So far all my Lipo’s have the Dean’s T connectors on them, I may up grade them all to the XT60 connectors but I made the battery plug in modular to the harness to give more plug and play options later on.
Here is the finished product, it packages very nicely in the frame, hope this can help on your Multi Rotor Project. Its all made from common left over parts from most Multi rotor builds.
The KK2 Board Stacks right ontop of the power board for a clean install. Hard foam rubber seperates each board from the frame.