Quadcopter build - KK2.0 installation

by eluminerRC | May 8, 2013 | (7) Posted in Projects

This is 8th video in this video series and it's about installing the brain - KK2.0 flight control board.

The most important thing when installing a flight control board is to reduce vibrations as much as possible. Most flight controllers (KK2.0 included) use gyros and accelerometers to stay in the air. These components are very sensitive to vibrations. The more vibrations they pick up the worse they will perform. Balancing your propellers and motors (reducing vibrations) is one part of the story which I will show you in future videos. The other part is vibration isolation. People use different methods to isolate boards from the frame, but since this is simple/beginner build I've used very basic technique.
Putting foam washers removes direct contact between a screw and a plate. So vibrations must travel through the foam in order to reach the board which will result in significant reduction. Moreover, I've used two levels of isolation. Upper frame plate is isolated from the main frame, and the board is isolated from the upper frame. Granted, there are some better materials for vibration reduction but not everybody has them. Foam, on the other hand, is relatively easy to come by.

I've replaced posts that came with SK450 kit (longer ones) with 6 mm short ones. That gives me lower profile which I need for something in the future (surprise! ;D). Also, the quad looks neater because it's harder to see all the wires hidden underneath the upper plate. But, you can use longer posts with no problem at all. It's even easier to build the quad since you don't have to struggle with small space underneath.

Customising the speaker is optional. You can simply plug it in as it is and put it somewhere on the frame. I didn't like extra wiring so I've decided to make it compact and cool. :-P


1. Making foam donut washers the way I've showed in the video is a pain in the but. However, if you don't have nothing else, it's the way to go. Easier way is to use two sharp metal tubes/pipes (3 mm and approx. 5 mm) and simply twist them in the foam. That way you will be making them faster and they will turn out nicer. You can even buy them somewhere if you want.


1. When customising speaker, make sure you bend the pins the right way. If you bend them the other way the speaker will be facing backwards when plugged properly into the board (of course, that's OK if you want it to be like that).

You need:

KK2.0 flight control board (with the foam peace and the speaker)

JST male connector

Upper plate from SK450 frame kit

M3 12 mm nylon screws

M3 20 mm nylon screws

M3 nylon nuts

Crimping tool

Soldering Paste

Soldering Iron (30W)

Any 30W (or similar) soldering iron

Solder (60/40)

Third/helping hand tool

Precision Knife

Wire cutters & Nose pliers

Mouse pad or any other source of foam

3 mm and 5 mm drill bits

A drill and a #1 phillips screwdriver


Enjoy RC as much as I do! :)


AdamS on June 27, 2013
Wow, awesome tutorial, just one question though, is the auxillary port controlled by the fifth channel on your remote? Or is it just default for something like LEDs? Thanks and great job.
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eluminerRC on June 28, 2013
Thanks for your comment! Yes, AUX is controlled by the fifth channel on my remote and it is used to turn KK's self-level feature on and off. This way I can turn self-level on and off in the air using switch on my remote. Alternatively, you could put self-level to "stick" and free up the fifth channel, but then you can control self-level only before flight (not in the air). I prefer to have it on the switch.
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excalibur_1020 on July 9, 2013
great video! i got a question on the board and esc, on the right portion that is for esc right? as i have seen the connector that you have attached was only one that is for m1 s+- while the rest was only s why? will the rest of the esc will response on this?thanks!
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eluminerRC on July 9, 2013
Please check my "ESC customisation" video and check the explanation in the article. In short, it's enough to supply 5V from one ESC only. Only signal wire is used to control the motors. Positive and negative wire are only for powering the board. Same thing is with the receiver.
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Crashpilot1000 on October 23, 2013
Nice Build video and good looking but I think there are some things to consider though.
1. I've seen in your videos that you are a huge fan of black wires everywhere loosing the colorcoding. That might lead to reverse polarity in the building process (slodering etc) and destroyed hardware.
2. Vibration damping is important but if the screws touch the frame and the board, they will transmitt the vibration. A swinging beeper directly mounted to the board *will* produce unnecessary vibrations.

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eluminerRC on October 25, 2013
1. Exactly. I totally agree with you and that is why on almost every video I warn people about this. I recommend using coloured wires. However, this is my craft and I don't make this just for tutorials so I want my craft to look neat. Black wiring are something that helps me to achieve this. Once you solder everything you can't really mess thing up, but during the build you definitely can fry something. Actually, I've fried PCB plate on this craft because I've connected the ESC wrong way. :-P
2. I'm very happy with quads performance so I can't really tell if this is good or bad. I've tried with and without these things and I don't really notice the difference.
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Crashpilot1000 on October 25, 2013
Ahh, ok. On more sophisticated platforms than KK2.0 you *will* run into vibration problems with a buzzer mounted in such a vibrating way. Not speaking of arducopter, that is pure and crystal clear sh*t on 8 Bit, no matter what those payed off flitetest blokes may say. Flitetest is just a payed off pile of waste.
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Quadcopter build - KK2.0 installation